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KL-Martin-Keller-bouldert-Insanity-of-grandeur-Fb-8c-Tessin-_DSC4865-MKeller_Illusion (jpg) Angela Wagner
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KL-Martin-Keller-bouldert-Insanity-of-grandeur-Fb-8c-Tessin-_DSC4902-MKeller_Illusion (jpg) 8 Bilder

Martin Keller bouldert "Insanity of Grandeur" (Fb 8c) in Chironico

Am 27. Januar gelang dem Schweizer Martin Keller die Wiederholung von Dai Koyamadas "Insanity of Grandeur" (Fb 8c) in Chironico - einer brettharten Kombi am Tessiner Granit.

Der Japaner Dai Koyamada hatte die Kombination aus dem tiefen Sitzstart von Der mit dem Fels tanzt und Delusions of Grandeur (Fb 8b) Ende 2012 erstbegehen können. Nun hat der Schweizer Martin Keller (37) aus Siebnen die Linie wiederholt.

Martin ist für seine Ausdauer im Projektieren von harten Bouldern bekannt. Doch schließlich kam noch mehr dazu als einfach nur Sturheit und Beharrlichkeit: Ausgefuchste Tricks haben ihm geholfen, trotz Eiseskälte durch den langen Boulder hindurch zu klettern.

Der rettende Clou: Ein erwärmter Stein im Chalkbag - an dem man die Finger wieder auftauen kann. Ach ja, und am besten bekommt man das "beheizte" Chalkbag übrigens angereicht; es samt Stein mitzuschleppen, wäre vermutlich kontraproduktiv gewesen.

Martins Bericht:

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Angela Wagner
Martin Keller in "Insanity..."

"Two things I have learned about this endeavor is that most dreams will only come true with a brutal amount of hard work and determination, so it’s important to love the process as much as the intended outcome, and having good friends with a sense of humor, will make all the difference in the world". (Sonnie Trotter)

I just read this nice blog post from canadian strongman Sonnie Trotter. He describes what happens when you set off into the unknown and/or when you test your limits. There will be no such things as two-day-epics. You may have to invest a bit more, failure could be your steady partner and you never know if you will ever make it. But there is no other way to find an answer to that question than to go out and go for it.

And these words are very true no matter if it's a small granite boulder in Ticino or a bit of a bigger chunk of it in Yosemite, or any boulder you want to do in "real" life. It is a very personal process about turning something impossible into reality, see how far you can push yourself and how far you are willing to go and how much you are willing to take... and it's about discovering and climbing "the perfect beta" which makes the moves not just possible but smooth and elegant. As "I really love to master my climbing" (that one is from Fred) it is this process I enjoy most. Quite often even more then the actual send. And last but not least; even if its a "solo" sport and it's all about you if you punt or succeed, without some good friends I would have never climbed (all my) this boulder and the experience would just not be the same. In the long term: "Happiness is only real when shared" (Christopher McCandless, Into the Wild).

Mehr zu Martin:

Mehr von und zu Martin auf seinem Blog Swizzybouldering.

Bouldern im Tessin

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Angela Wagner 1/10 Martin Keller: Tessin Local Martin Keller bouldert so viel im Tessin, dass man ihn getrost zu den Locals zählen kann. Hier ringt er "No Mystery" die erste Begehung nach dem Griff-Ausbruch ab.
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Neue Boulder in Namibia

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Vivi Monteiro 1/13 Neue Boulder in Namibia Einen Monat lang hat ein belgisch-schweizerisches Team um Nils Favre und Stephane Hanssens in Namiba neue Boulder gesucht. Hier gibt's Impressionen von ihrer Boulder-Expedition.
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Klettern und Bouldern im Peak District, England

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Lukas Binder 1/20 Trad-Klettern im Peak District In Stanage kann man nicht nur bouldern, sondern auch prima Routen klettern.
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