Fred Nicole Erstbegehung Rocklands Archiv Fred Nicole

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Kletternews – dabei: Fred Nicole, Jakob Schubert, Marvin Winkler, Hazel Findlay, Leon Fraunholz, Matilda Söderlund, Linus Raatz, Solveig Korherr, Luis Gerhardt, Anak Verhoeven, Babsi Zangerl, Jacopo Larcher, und viele mehr

Jakob Schubert (AT) klettert Perfecto Mundo (9b+) in Margalef (ES) und flasht Victime del Futur (8c+/9a)

Solveig Korherr (DE) klettert Southern Smoke (5.14c) in der Red River Gorge (US)

... und Lucifer (5.14c)

Matilda Söderlund (SE) klettert The Elder Statesman (11) im Frankenjura (DE)

Anak Verhoeven (BE) klettert Joe Mama (9a+) in Oliana (ES)

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Joe Mama, 9a+! 😃 I came to Oliana without having a particular route in mind that I wanted to try. Arriving at the crag, I made a quick decision: Joe Mama. In the time that followed, I went through the whole process of taming a route:
Finding the exact beta that suited me. Accepting hot temperatures and wet rock. Treating painful skin and taking extra rest days. 
I quickly felt at home in the route, but it wasn’t conquered yet! There are almost no places to shake out or take a breath. The crux is intense on tiny holds, followed by move after move of body tension and endurance. Quite a project... but abandoning didn’t feel like the right option. My first redpoint attempt came and I fell high up, in the crux. Two attempts later I chose a beta change which worked: I passed the crux move shortly after. But then I started falling at the crux move again. And again. And again. I just felt blocked every time I reached that spot and couldn’t move my body up. So, it was time for another change of beta. Just one extra foot movement made the difference and I was ready to keep going! But... the end of the trip was drawing near. Only 2 more climbing days were left. And I felt so close to sending... . . Another attempt. I passed the crux this time, with my new foot beta, but I fell some moves further, on a tricky deadpoint. Nooo... Again, I had to search for one more detail that needed to be changed. And I found it. My 10th redpoint attempt and the last one of that day.
I taped a finger with a bloody cut. I felt more tired than before. But I was determined to fight. I passed the crux and the deadpoint move too. Only one more risky move awaited me, right below the chain, but I didn’t want to let go. And I stuck it! What a feeling to clip those chains!!! . . . Most of the trip was spent on Joe Mama, but during a day off my project, I also on-sighted Gorilas en la Niebla - 8b+, a nice and long Oliana classic. Photo by @ezra_byrne 📸 @lasportivagram @petzl_official @lecomte.alpirando @xcultclimbing @climbforhim @frigyesvandenauweele #rockclimbing #oliana #lleida #catalunya #equipetapassion #lasportiva #weareclimbers #xcultclimbing

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Anak Verhoeven (@anak.verhoeven) am

Domen Skofic klettert Gancho Perfecto (9a+) in Margalef (ES)

Doro Karalus (DE) klettert Wirbeljet (Fb 8B) im Frankenjura (DE)

Hazel Findlay (GB) klettert Magic Line (5.14c) im Yosemite Valley (US)

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Well I‘m pleased as punch. ☺️Gushing and long post to follow... (but feels appropriate). Today I climbed Magic Line fourth try of the day, on the last day of the trip with the pressure on and an emotional roller coaster of (more) breaking foot holds, a sore finger, numb feet and wind-blown water from Vernal Falls. But I worked hard for this one. I knew as soon as I tried it very briefly in November 2018 that if I was ever going to climb one very hard (for me) single pitch this would be it. Just because it was so beautiful to look at, so fun to move upwards on and in such a magical place. So I trained properly with the help of @davidmason85 all summer and I committed myself to these 35 metres for the whole valley season. It was stressful getting heartbreakingly close twice but in reality doing it on the last day of the trip meant that this route was the perfect challenge for me, testing me right to the end. To give you an idea of how hard this route was for me - the lower boulder crux is the hardest boulder problem I’ve ever done. Of course it’s nice to bask in send-glory but really the process is where I’ll take the value from and there’s no chance this route hasn’t made me a better climber/person. Thanks to the Kauks for inspiring me especially Lonnie (who I think has done the route 4 times now 🤯) and all the valley friends this year who’ve spectated or participated in this process and supported me along the way especially @madeleine_cope @angus.kille @babsizangerl (lucky belay) @jacopolarcher @sandy.russellc @keenantakahashi 📸 photo: @eliza_earle @blackdiamond @lasportivagram @seatosummitgear

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Hazel Findlay (@hazel_findlay) am

Babsi Zangerl (AT) und Jacopo Larcher (IT) klettern The Nose (5.13b, 31 SL) am El Capitan (US)

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Freeing „The Nose“ was always a big dream to me. It is such a historical route. I remember when I first read the book of Lynn Hill, I was so incredibly inspired about all those stories about the valley. When I came to Yosemite the very first time together with Hansjörg Auer in 2010. I failed on every single piece of rock we tried to climb. It was a real adventure heading up to El Cap the very first time. I have to say, we didn‘t get far up the wall!! I had no idea about the route Hansjörg was psyched on, I just heard about the name „Secret passage“ and that it is probably miles away form what I was able to climb. When I think back I have a big smile on my face. It was such a fun trip with so many crazy stories happening (including an accident where Hansjörg broke his wrist due to a huge fall on Washington column) #missyoubuddy #unforgettable I definitely learned my lesson from back in the days! Today we are happy to visit this place almost every single year. Every route on El Cap is a different fulfilling experience to us. Sharing the rope once again with my partner in crime and finally free climbing the Nose means really a lot to me! Thanks to @_linacolina_ —you are such an inspiration!!!! •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••📸 @_claytonboyd_ „Great roof“ (thanks for joining us on the wall and capturing some moments...and of course thanks for the chips and beers) •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• @blackdiamond @lasportivagram @vibram @verivalbio @powerbar_europe @frictionlabs @gloryfy @fazabrushes #climbingmountains #elcapitan #climbinggirls #climbingpicturesofinstagram Von meinem iPhone gesendet

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Babsi Zangerl (@babsizangerl) am

Erstbegehung: Fred Nicole & Giuliano Cameroni (beide CH) klettern Legacy (9a) in Rocklands (ZA)

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Yesterday I was finally able to finish a project that had many up and downs like seldom in my life. 2014 I saw this beautiful line and with Joe we started looking at the movements. 2015 Sean asked Cape Conservation for permission to bolt and I started seriously working on it. The route has 2 parts: a really hard boulder on tiny slick holds, followed by an easier but sustained section to the top. I started to understand the moves of the boulder section but wasn’t able to put it together. The following season was my best and I did the route in two sections. 2017 and 2018 I was struggling to do the moves due to a hip problem, so that I spend a lot of time finding solutions that worked with an handicap. November 2018 I had a hip replacement as even walking was getting impossible without pain. When I came back this year I didn’t know what to expect. I was surprised to see that my flexibility was back and I could do the moves again. But there was something lacking and one day when I was working on the route with Joe and Kaddi, she proposed a slightly different version that made the first section possible again. On my best go I fell just after the crux section, and was able to do it till the top. Unfortunately the following tries didn’t go well. When Giuliano asked me if I mind him trying the route I sincerely didn’t know what to answer. In my generation it’s not usual to try somebody’s project till the person does it or gives it free. In the same time I didn’t feel like telling somebody I know since he was born, and that I respect for his performances, not to try it. I let the decision to him and wished him sincerely luck if he would go for it! A few days later „Legacy“ was born! Yesterday the weather was on my side and with a cold wind I was able to link both sections together and do this personal challenge. I’m not interested in the controversy this route has built. The important things for me remain respecting the ethics, the people, the nature, the rocks and staying open for constructive discussions as we can all learn from each other and keep having fun! @fiveten_official @blackdiamond @e9clothing_official @climbskinspain #rocklands #bouldering

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Fred Nicole (@fred_nicole) am

Moritz Welt (DE) klettert La Reina Mora (9a) in Siurana (ES)

Leon Fraunholz (DE) klettert Riot Act (Fb 8B) im Frankenjura

Marvin Winkler (DE) klettert Mangarbo (9a/+) in Villanueva del Rosario (ES)

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Mangarbo 9a/+ ✅ This routes was all abouts limits for me. The first time I got into contact with it, was making a video of @sebbouin doing the FA some years ago and @edumarin1 repeating it shortly after. At this time I was so intimidated by tininess of the holds that I never really dared to try. During the last years I always remembered @rubeniano saying that I might can do it - something I didn't believed at this time. However, during the last years I came back many times to #villanuevadelrosario which became like a second home for me thanks to the many great persons I met, the friendsships we made, and the experiences and passion we share. After doing Mandanga total, my first 9a last spring I convined my self to give it a try. Yet, surprisingly, the sections felt much easier than before and I think that the nutrition recomendations by @luisrozmar largely contributed to it. It's a huge lesson I learned from it: Not to keeping myself within limits, daring to try something that first seem impossible. I met many persons there that inspired me this way @andreaclimbing @angel_bravo_jimenez @charly_is_psyyyched @cintiapercivati @c._padilla @danigaona85 @jorgeclimb @luisrozmar @michalclimbs @manueldct @ninagmiter @nurimor ¡Seguimos! Many thanks to @austrialpin_mountain and @steinwild for supporting me on this way. #austrialpin #steinwild #steinwild_unterwegs #climbing_in_spain #villanuevadelrosario #climbing_is_my_passion #climbing #chilam #9a #klettern #escalar #passion

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Marvin Winkler (@mr.marvin.winkler) am

Giani Clément (CH) klettert La Grosse Tarlouze (Fb 8C) in Magic Wood (CH)

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''LA GROSSE TARLOUZE'' (8C/V15) #bouldering #magicwood #athisfinest . Last week I managed to do the 2nd repetition of the endurance test piece, first ascended in 2015 by @michael.piccolruaz and repeated in 2019 by @christof_rauch . It was probably my biggest fight I ever had to climb a boulder. It was a fight against the massive pump, due to the length of more than 40 moves, as well as a fight with the icy cold temps which were difficult to handle. The decisive factor for the successful ascent, apart from mental & physical aspects, was certainly the choice of the right tactics, especially because of the extremely cold rock, which tends to make my fingers so numb during climbing. A hot stone saved my life at the shaking point! I'm overjoyed that I was able to make the 3rd ascent and looking back I'm still speechless that I managed to climb so many great and hard boulders this year. Now I'm motivated for new challenges in lovely #ticino as soon as the rain stops and the weather becomes more stable. . Many thanks to @jonathanheusser for the support & psyche and BIG congrats for his well deserved sent of the classics ''THE NEVER ENDING STORY'' 8B+/V14 and ''MASSIVE ATTACK'' 8A+/V12 . And also as many thanks for the support and cheering my up during the precious sessions, @swizzybouldering @stephi.moulin @kurtschurmann @yuri_meier . . 📷 1 - by @jonathanheusser during our sess yesterday, edited by me - shows me in ''LA GROSSE TARLOUZE''. 📷 2 - by @_tom._.tom_ from a sess this summer 📷 3 - print screen from the actual sent🎥 📷 4+5 - taken yesterday by me, edited by me as well - shows @jonathanheusser in ''THE NEVER ENDING STORY'' . . .

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Giani Clement (@gianiclimbs) am

Linus Raatz (DE) klettert Riverbed (Fb 8B) im Magic Wood (CH)

Jernej Kruder (SI) klettert Dreamtime (FB 8B+) im Tessin (CH)

... und Veccio Leone (Fb 8B)

Luis Gerhardt (DE) klettert Schule des Lebens (Fb 8B) in Chironico (CH)

Erstbegehung: Keenan Takahashi klettert Hoto (V14/15) in Mizugaki (JP)

Eliot Stephens (GB) klettert Heritage (FB 8B) im Tessin (CH)

… und Big Paw (Fb 8B+/8C) in Chironico (CH)

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Yesterday was without doubt the freakiest and best days climbing I’ve ever had • With a weeks worth of rain forecast we blitzed over to Chironico to make the most of the last day of sun. I managed to finish up ‘Deliverance’ 8A+, with a total freestyle after a foot cut on the first move, climbing the end in a way I’d never conceived of before, let alone tried. After a few hours of rest and spotting we mooched over to ‘Second Life’ 8A+. I was lucky to climb it quickly after trying it a few years back • With the psyche from @gianiclimbs , we went over to ‘Boogalagga’. With darkness on us and one lamp remaining, I doubted the session would last long. Keen to try and recruit on the moves after many sessions on the sit over the last 3 years, I got stuck in. I managed to repeat the stand start to ‘Big Paw’ called ‘Boogalagga’ 8B in a few goes. I started to try the sit moves with the aim of just repeating them. 2 goes later, out of nowhere, I found myself stood on top of ‘Big Paw’ 8B+/C. To culminate what has been a 3 year journey with this thing, in just a few goes this trip felt surreal, and almost like a dream. I’ve had some surprise ascents before but this was something different. It was the perfect alignment of conditions and a free mind. • With Giani psyched to head over to Cresciano to try ‘Dreamtime’ we opted to tag along. After trying the end of the stand start a few weeks ago I was keen to try the moves off the tiny friction dependant crimps. After a few goes, I found myself stood on top of ‘Dreamtime Stand’ 8A+. After doing the moves on the sit again it was time to head back to tha ranch • Big thanks to @tonyclimbs_3 and @gianiclimbs for the psyche, spots and lamp moving. Cheers fellas. One to remember 🤜 • @organicclimbing @scarpa_uk @frictionlabs @organicclimbing #chironico #bouldering #climbing #switzerland

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Eliot Stephens (@eliotstephens) am

… und Entlinge (Fb 8B+) in Murgtal (CH)

…und Arzak (Fb 8C)

Martin Keller (CH) klettert New Base Line (Fb 8B+) im Tessin (CH)

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“NEWBASELINE, 8B+“ 💎😜🤟👊-last day - best night!!! another epic journey comes to an end :))) . keep dreaming big - put in the work - enjoy the process - eventually send - even if this takes you 10+ years!!!! . one day before winter hit hard i made myself a great early 42nd birthday-present with another 10year lifetime-project-send; this time it was the ultraclassic @berndzangerl boulder; „NEWBASELINE, 8B+“ in #magicwood . really happy and proud about this one as it’s my TOTAL anti-style!!! small crimping in the steep with lots off kilograms normally isn’t the perfect combo and i barley get my (fat) fingers into the starting hold - what troubled me and my poor fingers a lot - swollen fingers-joints and aching pulleys were usually the result! . to top this; EVERY single move felt NOT in the box and therefore super strange - something i normally really don't like - but you gotta trick your mind and try to actually “enjoy” the weirdness - and it really worked - i actually started to enjoy it - all in all this was a great challenge - and the line was just way too good to let it „pass“!!! . in the end POWER was the key NOT starvation!!! i did not climbed it with skinny 68kg but with 73.5kg off power!!! . btw. must have been a FFA; „first fatty ascent“ - not sure if it was climbed before with +74kg ;) . . the 10 year story in a quick summary (swipe right!); . -front-pic1; video-still from the SEND; in the last crux off NBSL!!! . -pic/vid2; what a journey it was; i already had sent the stand-start and the lower part back in 2010! i got very close on the full line pretty fast, but somehow never made it! . -pic/vid3; SEND-DAY-NIGHT; it rained when i left home -took me over 2hrs, 4towels, 2ventilators with 4akkus to make it climbable - it still was very humid - super scary topout at 5m all alone in the woods . . ‪-pic/vid4; THE SEND!! ‬grabing the jug at NBSL, the moment i had kept dreaming from for 10years!!! . -pic/vid5; must have been „power off - and chestnuts “ ;) . -pic/vid6; it got LATE till i was back home - still back at work the next morning - no slacking! . -pic7/vid7; magic wood the next day - perfect timing!

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Martin Keller (@swizzybouldering) am

Giuliano Cameroni (CH) klettert Veccio Leone (Fb 8B) im Tessin (CH)

Luca Rinaldi (IT) klettert The Great Escape (FB 8B) im Tessin

…und Jour de Chasse (Fb 8B+) in Fontainebleau (FR)

… und Trap House (Fb 8B)

Toshi Takeuchi (JP) klettert Squoze (V15) in Las Vegas (US)

Flash: Tomoa Narasaki (JP) klettert Decided (V14) in Mizugaki (JP)

Erstbegehung: Dai Koyamada (JP) klettert Sanctum (V15/16) in Shirakawa (JP)

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last week, I was able to complete the project I was trying in Shirakawa. It took 12 days total and while on the project I was forced to break away because of injury, but it finally happened today. 2 days ago I couldn’t link the bottom part and seemed it was going to take more time, but conditions of both the rock and my body was good today. On the third try the bottom finally linked for the first time and fell after 2 further moves, and on the fourth I linked through the last moves and failed on going for the lip. So much effort went into this try that I was thinking I was done for the day, but I had a hunch I shouldn’t miss out on taking advantage of those better conditions and rested for a long time. The fifth try after this rest was perfect. I did have a strange premonition but didn’t think I would be sending it today. And it came almost all too suddenly and easily, but thinking back on the process I went through it was a really hard struggle. Above all, this problem has such technical and complex moves that it took substantial amount of time and effort just to find and construct them into sequences. I think the grade is harder than V15, but not sure if it justifies 16. I have experiences of sending many 15s now, but not much on 16 and I’m not entirely sure how much above 15 does it take to make 16. It’s also possible that someone will discover better moves. So, I’m grading this tentatively at V15-16 or 5-6 Dan. I wish to discuss this with later ascensionists and decide. I am happy to have sent it, for now. And glad that another great problem is born. Now I feel like I’m ready to move on to next project. I’m naming this problem “Sanctum.”

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Dai Koyamada (@dai_koyamada) am

Angus Kille (GB) klettert El Corazon (5.13b, 35 SL) am El Capitan (US)

Thomas Lindinger (DE) klettert Bokassa’s Fridge (Fb 8C) in Kochel (DE)

Buster Martin (GB) klettert First Ley (9a+) in Margalef (ES)

Matt Fultz klettert Muscle Car (V14) in Coal Creek Canyon (US)

Klemen Becan (SI) klettert A muerte (9a) in Siurana (ES)

Charlotte Durif (FR) klettert The Sheep Prow (8c) in Peru

Finn Hayward (GB) klettert Fish Eye (8c) in Oliana (ES)

Erstbegehung: Tommy Caldwell & Alex Honnold klettern Neutour am El Capitan (US)

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This is a photo of @tommycaldwell looking calm and collected while sending a 5.13c (8a+) corner pitch on the third night of our recent new route on El Cap. I included a pic of me looking incredibly gripped while trying to clip a bolt from our first night on the wall for contrast. I’ve always known that Tommy was an incredible big wall climber; I grew up watching films about his feats. And we’ve had enough big adventures over the years that I’ve gotten to see some of his best performances first hand (Fitz Traverse, or the Free Triple...). But spending 4 days with him on El Cap really highlighted the fact that he’s maybe the best big wall climber in the world. On nights 2 and 3 he spent several hours after dark to work and then send a 13d and 13c pitch. Both pitches were freakin hard with slightly finicky gear but he just worked it all out and executed perfectly. Both nights I got too cold and too scared and opted to wait until morning and climb them in the light. After 7 years of working on the Dawn Wall Tommy is truly an incredible night climber. I’d say it was a sight to behold, except that I couldn’t see anything - I just fed out rope while he sent through the night. Anyway, it was inspiring to see Tommy’s level of skill and effort up there. And it’s the kind of thing that often goes unrecognized behind “they climbed a new route”. But how he climbed it was remarkable. Thanks @austin_siadak for the great photos and keeping us company through the long nights...

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Alex Honnold (@alexhonnold) am

Sean Bailey (US) klettert Joe Mama (9a+) in Oliana (ES)

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