KL Jonas Winter klettert Dolby Surround 8c+/9a im Zillertal Climb to Heaven

Top Kletter-Leistungen aus aller Welt

Kletter-Highlights: Karalus, Perwitzschky, Winter, Gassner

Auch im August und September wurde hart geklettert: Von Pakistan bis Canada, hier gibt es die schwersten Routen und Boulder der letzten Wochen im Überblick.

Die härtesten Züge der letzten Wochen im Überblick.

Philipp Gassner (DE) flasht 'Lightsaber' (Fb 8A) in Rocklands (ZA)

... und klettert 'Ubuntu' (Fb 8B)

Ubuntu 8b • striking line in #rocklands @vincentontherocks @petzl_official @scarpa_de

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Philipp Gaßner (@philipp.gassner) am

Thomas Lindinger (DE) klettert 'Bullrider' (Fb 8B) im Frankenjura (DE)

Jonas Winter (CE) klettert 'Dolby Surround' (8c+/9a) im Zillertal (AT)

Moritz Perwitzschky (DE) klettert 'Nose vs Beauty' (Fb 8C) in Rocklands (ZA)

Julia Chanourdie (FR) klettert 'Cabane au Canada' (9a) in Rawyl (CH)

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (GB) klettert Nordic Plumber (8c) in Flatanger (NU)

Julia Chanourdie (FR) klettert 'La Cabane au Canada' (9a) in Rawyl (CH)

Doro Karalus (DE) klettert 'Tor zur Hölle' & 'Triple X' im Frankenjura (DE)

... und XXL (Fb 8A)

Jimmy Webb (US) klettert 'Dreamcatcher' (5.14d) in Squamish (CA)

Jimmy Webb (US) crusht in Fontainebleau (FR) und Cresciano (CH)

Federica Mingolla (IT) befreit 'Addio al Celibato' (8a+, MSL) in Gole di Frasassi (IT)

Angus Kille (GB) klettert 'Trauma' (E8 7a) in Wales (GB)

Gérome Pouvreau & Florence Pinet räumen in Großbritannien ab

KL Florence Pinet & Gerome Pouvreau climbing Pembroke 2018
pinetflorence.blogspot.com
Florence Pinet in Pembroke.

Das französische Paar Gérome Pouvreau und Florence Pinet konnten in Wales einige Toplinien klettern. Beide wiederholten The Big Issue (E9 6c), Chupacabra (E8/9 6c) und Point Blank (E8 6c) in Pembroke, Gérome gelang auch noch Muy Caliente (E10 6c). Außerdem kletterten beide The Quarryman (E8 7A) in den Llanberis Slate Quarries. Dann reisten die starken Franzosen noch nach Schottland und in Dumbarton konnte Gérome noch Rhapsody (E11 7a) und Requiem (E8 6b) klettern.

Madeleine Cope (GB) klettert 'Mustang' (8a trad) in Cadarese (IT)

... und 'The Doors' (8a trad)

Sieh dir diesen Beitrag auf Instagram an

The Doors (8a+/8a/7c+/whatever on trad) has been a dream route of mine ever since @hazel_findlay and I visited Cadarese 5 years ago. I hadn't done much crack climbing at this point and mostly bounced around on a top rope, but something about this style of climbing lured me in. Watching @hazel_findlay style The Doors only inspired me more. Since then this style of climbing has led me across the pond and up El Cap. But this year Ryan and I decided to kit out our van and explore Europe rather than pay out for flights to the States. Unfortunately, on route to Cadarese our home broke down. We spent a morning driving to different garages, trying to communicate with a distinct lack of Italian, and worrying whether it was going to cost the equivalent of flights to the States to fix. Luckily, we were back on the road by lunchtime. Feeling pretty drained we decided to ease ourselves in at Cadarese - do some mileage. However, watching Jonny dig deep on The Doors, I couldn't resist. I got reasonably far on my first go, but after falling and working out the crux I seemed to have an instant sugar crash from the 2 pastries I had eaten to celebrate the van being fixed. I struggled my way to the top, drenched in sweat in the humidity, getting scared above my bomber cams, and taking about 20 tries to commit to the last move. I guess I felt a bit dejected, but it was nothing a packet of crisps and beer couldn't sort out. I decided to give The Doors a rest for a couple of days. Today I went back and after an initial working go to get the moves sussed and decide on gear I managed to send the route. It wasn't exactly 'a muete' (in Ryan's words I rested my way up it) but I really enjoyed the climb and definitely had to lay one on for the last hold! Thanks to @hazel_findlay for the #thedoors #dreamline @mammut_uk @lasportivagram

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Maddy Cope (@madeleine_cope) am

Erstbegehung: Read MacAdam (CA) klettert 'Back to the Future' (8b+) in Droide, Valle Dell’Orco (IT)

Erstbegehung: Dave Graham (US) klettert 'Parzival' (Fb 8C) in Rocklands (ZA)

Stephan Vogt (DE) klettert 'Shangri-La' (11-/11) im Frankenjura

Nalle Hukkataival (FI) klettert 'Kingda Ka' (Fb 8B) am Gotthard (CH)

Katherine Choong (CH) klettert 'La Cabane au Canada' (9a) in Rawyl (CH)

Erstbegehung: Brette Harrington (CA) klettert 'Crouching Tiger' (5.12b+, 500m)

Hazel Findlay (GB) klettert 'Super Cirill' (8a) im Tessin (CH)

Christof Rauch (AT) klettert 'Ubuntu' (Fb 8B) in Rocklands (ZA)

Erstbegehung: Giuliano Cameroni (CH) klettert 'The Smile' (Fb 8C) in Rocklands (ZA)

... und 'Black Eagle' (Fb 8C) in Rocklands (ZA)

Daniel Woods (US) wiederholt 'Skadoosh' (Fb 8B+) in Rocklands (ZA)

Marine Thevenet (FR) klettert 'Law and Order' (Fb 8A+) in Rocklands (ZA)

Matt Fultz (US) klettert 'Let the Right one in' (V14) in Mt Evans (US)

Chaehyeon Seo (KOR), 14 Jahre alt, klettert 'Bad Girls Club' (5.14d) in Rifle (US)

Erstbegehung: Nicoas Favresse, Mathieu Maynadier, Carlitos Molina, Jean-Louis Wertz eröffnen Routen im Thagas Valley, Pakistan

KL Nicoas Favresse & Co Erstbegehung Thagas Valley, Pakistan
Jean-Louis Wertz
Nicoas Favresse & Co Erstbegehung Thagas Valley, Pakistan

Nicos Kurzbericht:

Thagas Valley remains with several beautiful unclimbed peaks and great objectives rock and mix climbs. From our experience the rock was generally not as good as it looked like from a distance but still good fun.

This is the two climbs we opened in Thagas valley.

- 31/07-5/08 First ascent of Pathan peak (+-6000m) via The Pathan pillar – 6b – A1 (which could be free climbed at around 7a) – 900meters. Over the course of 3 days we fixed the first 300 meters then we spent another 2 days on the wall fixing some extra meters above our portaledges before making our push to the summit. Team : Mathieu Maynadier, Carlitos Molina, Jean-Louis Wertz and Nicolas Favresse

-15/08 First ascent of Pathani Peak (+- 6000m) via Pathani 6a ,M6, 600m (300m of snow ramp + 300m of technical climbing) opened by Carlitos Molina and Nicolas Favresse in a 17h round trip from camp to camp.

Im 4. Monat schwanger: Caroline Ciavaldini (FR) klettert 8a onsight

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