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Highlights: Philipp Gassner, Margo Hayes, David Firnenburg

Die härtesten Züge der letzten Wochen: Philipp Gassner, Margo Hayes, Adam Ondra, Christof Rauch, David Firnenburg und viele mehr.

Philipp Gassner (DE) klettert 'The Vice' (Fb 8B) in Rocklands (ZA)

... und 'Working Class' (11) im Frankenjura (DE)

Thomas Dauser (DE) klettert 'Intercooler' (11-) im Frankenjura (DE)

Said Belhaj (SE) klettert 'Action Directe' (11) im Frankenjura (DE)

Carlo Traversi (US) klettert 'Meltdown' (5.14c) im Yosemite (US)

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Meltdown. What a ride. First tried this beautiful line in 2013 and got completely shut down. Couldn’t figure out how to stand on the absolutely miserable footholds. The next year I tried again and solved the crux, a desperate lie back section on gently overhanging granite while smearing on glass. I thought everything would come together quickly after that but I was wrong. It’s one thing to climb through a difficult section, it’s another to be relaxed enough while you’re doing it to not burn yourself out for the rest of the route. I top roped it clean at the end of 2015, got desperately close on lead, and then proceeded to go to war with the weather through 2016 and 2017. This season it all came together. A dry Fall and this week the colder temps are just sweeping into the Valley. Yesterday I was able to climb it on my 3rd try of the day after a couple weird slips after the crux on the first two tries. All gear was placed on lead, after the first piece was placed I climbed back down to the ground to re-chalk and re-compose. The climbing went smoothly including the placement of the final #4 @blackdiamond Stopper which is always a tricky one to get in. A massive thanks to @marymeck for all the days supporting me in the Valley through some of the coldest times. And my brother @gtraversi for standing in knee deep ice water in underwear in freezing temps to belay when the pool at the base of the route filled up. Last but not least a huge thanks to @bethrodden for the vision, tenacity, and incredible climbing ability that brought this route to life over 10 years ago. The First Ascent of this route is a benchmark in the history of climbing and is one of the most impressive achievements I can think of in the last few decades. Respect. Photo by @bearcam. @blackdiamond @blackdiamond_climb @fiveten_official @frictionlabs @theboulderfield

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Carlo Traversi (@carlodenali) am

David Firnenburg (DE) wiederholt 'L’isola che non c’è' (9a) in Amden (CH)

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“L’isola che non c’è” • Wow, the mystery is revealed Today David finally repeated this milestone opened by Swiss legend @fred_nicole after almost 10 years without any repetition (FA March 14th 2009) • We are not lying if we call this line the “Action Directe” of Switzerland It sits at a mystical place, opened by a climbing legend, is high-end climbing and didn’t see any repeat after almost a decade • David invested a lot of work into it. Starting to try it without success in 2016, coming back for a couple of days in 2017, again without a happy end, and now finally sending it this season after another 3 days of trying his best. Maybe in total 8 days of work and over 15 tries (we didn’t count). It’s a huge feeling of relief and inner peace standing in front of this line finally finished and thinking back to a great process of contest with a piece of rock • Fred didn’t give it a grade, just said it lies somewhere around the 9th french grade. David proposes 9a for a powerful Fb 8A boulder (so called “Cavernicole”) at the start, a Fb 7th graded traverse into a horizontal rest on a mini jug with heel-toe cam followed by a long and powerful Fb 8A+ boulder with spectacular swing and feet forward sequence at the very end. You sit start on crash pads and finish with a rope approx. 10 meters above the ground. But hey to all strong climbers out there! Why not coming to Amden to give this masterpiece a try? • Thank you for the invaluable support and backing my beloved brother Ruben and @andrea_kuemin • @larsscharlphoto • #makemovesnowar @sporthilfe @frictionlabs @neprosport @haglofs @scarpa_de @scarpaspa @escaladrome_hannover #davsektionrheinlandköln • #theislanddoesnotexist #neverland #amden #firnenburgbrothers #firnenburg #climbing #klettern #freeclimbing #switzerland #thechapterisclosed #climbingpicturesofinstagram #chalkupless #climbmore #frictionlabs #beattheelements #noplacetoofar

Ein Beitrag geteilt von David & Ruben Firnenburg (@firnenburgbrothers) am

... und 'Classified' (9a/+) im Frankenjura (DE)

Jonathan Siegrist (US) klettert 'Spicy Dumpling' (9a) in Yangshuo (CN)

Margo Hayes (US) klettert 'Joe Blau' (8c+) in Oliana (ES)

Pete Whittaker (GB) klettert El Cap & Half Dome (US) in 20 Std solo

Adam Ondra (CZ) klettert 'Assassin' (5.14d) in Smith Rock (US)

Samuel Ometz (CH) klettert 'Saruman' du bas (Fb 8B) in Fontainebleau (FR)

Christoph Rauch (AT) klettert 'Chef Charles' (Fb 8B) und 'The Arkenstone' (Fb 8A+) im Magic Wood (CH)

... und 'Dust Devil' (Fb 8B+) im Saalachtal (AT)

Emma Twyford (GB) klettert 'Impact Day' (E8/9 6c) in Pavey Ark (GB)

Cedric Lachat (CH) klettert 'Alpenbitter' (9a) in Gimmelwald (CH)

Martin Keller (CH) klettert 'Wovenhand' (Fb 8B) in Magic Wood (CH)

Danny Parker klettert 'Century Crack' (5.14b) in Moab, Utah (US)

Seb Bouin (FR) klettert 'La Cabane au Canada' (9a) in Rawyl

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After spending 3 days in the mythique Buoux in France for my "vintage rock tour", I came to the nice and beautiful crag of "Rawyl" in Switzerland (Valais). What a place! We were Lucky enough to climb with the sun during 4 days. I sent "La cabane au Canada" supposed 9a - 5.14d in my third go. I fell on the last move in the second go because of a foot mistake.. The plan was to try it flash, but I didn't find someone able to flash the moves. Anyway it's an amazing route, an amazing crag, and an amazing place. No public comment about the grade of this route !! I also did the mega classic "le voile de Maya" 8c - 5.14b in my second go. I try it onsight but I felt with a wrong beta in the crimpy crux. Next time ;) I also try "hyper finale" 9a+ - 5.15a and "Super finale" 9a, but I need more days and better conditions to do these ones. Pic of me trying "Super finale" 9a. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Après avoir passé 3 journées dans la mythique falaise de Buoux pour mon "Vintage rock Tour", je suis monté faire un tour en Suisse, à la falaise du Rawyl (Valais). Nous avons été assez chanceux pour avoir 4 journées d'escalade ensoleillées. J'ai enchainé "La cabane au Canada" supposé 9a au deuxième essai. Je suis tombé au premier essai au dernier mouvement de la voie à cause d'une erreur de pied. Le plan été d'essayer cette voie flash, mais je n'ai trouver personne pour m'expliquer les méthodes. C'était un super moment dans une super voie, une super falaise et un super lieux! What else? A propos de la difficulté de la voie, pas de commentaire publique! J'ai aussi réalisé la méga classique "Le voile de Maya" 8c au premier essai. J'ai essayé à vue mais je suis tombé au crux sur réglettes :D! J'ai aussi essayé "hyper finale" 9a+ et "super finale" 9a, mais j'ai besoin de plus de jours et de meilleures conditions pour enchainer ces voies là. Photo prise durant le travail de "Super finale" 9a. Thank's to support me in these projects @blackdiamond @eb_climbing @mytendon @matahijuice @climbskinspain @Crosscall @natureclimbing

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Seb Bouin (@sebbouin) am

Karo Sinnhuber (AT) klettert 'Die perfekte Welle' (Fb 8A+) in Tumpen (AT)

Erstbegehung: Hansjörg Auer, Much Mayr, Guido Unterwurzacher (AT) besteigen 6000er im Himalaya

Paige Claassen (US) klettert 'Algorithm' (9a)

Moritz Welt (DE) klettert 'Sever the wicked hand' (11) im Frankenjura (DE)

... und die Erstbegehung 'Midas' (11-/11) im Frankenjura (DE)

Martin Stranik (CZ) klettert 'Sick and Hide' (Fb 8B+) im Maltatal (AT)

.... und 'The Essential' (11)

Jonathan Siegrist (US) klettert 'Ghetto Booty' (5.14d) in Nevada (US)

Katha Saurwein (AT) und Jorg Verhoeven (NL) klettern 'Tainted Love' (5.13d, trad) in Squamish (CA)

Jim Pope (GB) klettert 'Meshuga' (E9, 6C) im Peak District (GB)

Erstbegehung: Adam Ondra klettert 'Four For Glory' (8c+) in Albanien

Louis Parkinson (GB) klettert 'Karma' (Fb 8A+) in Fontainebleau (FR)

Giuliano Cameroni (CH) klettert 'New Base Line' (Fb 8B+) in Magic Wood (CH)

Dru Mack (US) klettert 'Pure Imagination' (5.14d) in der Red River Gorge (US)

Caro Sinno (FR) klettert 'Trafic' (Fb 8b trav) in Fontainebleau (FR)

Sean McColl (CA) klettert 'North Ridge' (Fb 8B+) in Squamish, BC (CA)

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“North Ridge” (V14, 8B+) ️ ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ This line is the hardest in Gibbs Cave and is the definition of power endurance. You climb through roughly 20 moves where no individual move is harder than V9/10; it starts at the back of the cave on powerful big moves, goes through a small dihedral on crimps and fingerlocks and finishes up the iconic “Black Hole”. After Georg got the first ascent back in 2008, I was working the line (around 2010) and on one of my redpoint tries, I snapped off the crux crimp. The move still worked but it was a bit harder. Over the years, it has seen a few ascents and for me it feels so satisfying to have now ticked that one off the bucket list. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ With all the competing and training, it’s been a while since I seriously tried a hard line outside. The feeling of re-learning moves, figuring out the best beta and waiting for holds to dry can be a process ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ The good weather here in Squamish won’t last forever but I’ve had an amazing October on multiple levels ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Already have a new project in this majestic forest after bumping into local legends Tim Doyle and Ben Harnden! Guesses? ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ @adidasterrex @scarpana @walltopia @joerockheads @verticalartclimbing @flashedclimbing @perfect_descent #verticalart #climbing #train #canada #instagood #picoftheday #photooftheday #athlete #igers #amazing #sports #fitspo #gymlife #power #fitfam #adventure #fitness #work #workhard #workout #strength #challenge #follow #ninja #gym #fun #squamish

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Sean McColl (@mccollsean) am

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