KL Adam Ondra klettert in Mavrovo, Mazedonien Bernardo Gimenez

Neues von Spitzenkletterern aus aller Welt

Highlights: Ondra, Firnenburg, Jung, Hayes

Hier gibt's die härtesten Routen und Boulder-Begehungen der letzten Wochen. Dabei: Adam Ondra, David Firnenburg, Daniel Jung und Margo Hayes.

David Firnenburg (DE) klettert 'Le Cadafist' (9a) in St. Leger (FR)

... und 'Molasse'son' (8c+/9a) in Mollans (FR)

Erstbegehung: Daniel Jung (DE) klettert 'Karamba Karacho' (9a?)

Erstbegehung: Adam Ondra (CZ) klettert Mazedoniens erste 9a

Erstbegehung: Adam Ondra (CZ) klettert 'Czech Trip' (9a+) in Mazedonien

Martin Mayer (DE) klettert 'Burn for you' (11-) im Frankenjura (DE)

Thomas Dauser (DE) klettert 'Headcrash' (11-) im Frankenjura (DE)

Markus Bock (DE) klettert 'The Funeral' (Fb 8B+) im Frankenjura (DE)

Erstbegehung: Thilo Schroeter (NO) klettert 'Agnes Buen' (9a) in Oslo (NO)

Sieh dir diesen Beitrag auf Instagram an

Agnes Buen was bolted about 25 years ago and has become the most notorious project in Oslo since then. All the Norwegian strong men and a few international stars tried the route back in the 90s but got shut down. I think it was written off for many years until it was tried again by some friends of mine and I went out to try it myself. All the moves went within a session or two but they all felt really hard and linking them impossible. That season I had about five days on it, and ultimately I was able to make a link up to the crux, but there was just no way that the crux would go ground up anytime soon. The weather got bad and that was that. Two years passed without trying, but the route was still in the back of my mind. Fast forward to 2018, and after a long competition season I was very motivated to give myself the time to just maybe get it done this season. With no trips planed for a few months I started trying the route mid August in bad conditions to get it dialed for when the crisp conditions would arrive, as the window for good conditions in Norway is often very short. Minimum once a week I went out to try it. After about five sessions of working on it conditions arrived, and I had three solid sessions with exceptionally good friction. I was linking up to the crux most of my attempts but the low percentage crux move eluded me time and time again. The more I fell on the move the more I lost hope. As long as there is progress everything is cool, and generally I'm good at seeing progress in small details and not only in new high points, but eventually also the details were perfected and I was still falling over and over again on the same move. I even knew from the beginning that this stagnation probably would occur, and I thought I was prepared, but I wasn't, it was getting to me mentally. A lot of rain came in and made it impossible to try the route, I went to check the route a few times just to find it soaked. I thought thats it. I almost wanted the weather to suck so that I didn't have to keep failing. Continuation in the comment section!

Ein Beitrag geteilt von THILO SCHRÖTER (@thiloschroeter) am

Margo Hayes (US) klettert 'Mind Control' (8c) in Oliana (ES)

Erstbegehung: Jimmy Webb (US) klettert 'King of the Jungle' (V13) in Tahoe (US)

Babsi Zangerl (AT) klettert 'Sangre de Toro' (8b+, 6SL) an der Roten Wand (AT)

Guillaume Glairon Mondet (FR) klettert 'Asymptote' (Fb 8B) in Fontainebleau (FR)

Beto Rocasolano klettert 9a-Erstbegehung

Tilo Moser klettert 'Kanal im Rücken' (10) grünpunkt / clean

KL Tilo Moser klettert Kanal im Rücken clean
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Tilo Moser hat Güllichs Meilenstein 'Kanal im Rücken' selbst abgesichert (auch: greenpoint) geklettert.

Orrin Coley klettert 'Sean’s Roof' (Fb 8A+) in the Peak District (GB)

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk klettert 'Raining Bats and Dogs' (8c) in Malham (GB)

Cedric Lachat (CH) klettert 'Jungfraumarathon' (9a) in Gimmelwald (CH)

Paul Robinson (US) klettert 'Delirium' (V15), Lincoln Lake (US)

Martin Stranik (CZ) klettert 'Wendelove' (Fb 8B) in Modrin (CZ)

Kim Marschner (DE) rockt die Rocklands (ZA)

Erstbegehung: Joe Kinder (US) klettert 'Diarrhhea Mouth' (9a) in Rifle (US)

Daniel Woods (US) klettert 'Ace of Spade' (5.14d/15a) in Utah (US)

Michiel Nieuwenhuijsen (NL) klettert 'Isle of Wonder' (Fb 8B) in Owens Valley, Wales (GB)

Trainings-Krassowitsch des Tages: Toshi Takeushi (JP) schafft Hangwaage an kleinen Fingern

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