KL Margo Hayes klettert Papichulo 9a+ in Oliana Jan Novak

Kletternews

Highlights: Margo Hayes, Sachi Amma, Giuliano Cameroni und mehr

Margo Hayes klettert erneut 9a+, Sachi Amma punktet 9b, Giuliano Cameroni eröffnet Hardcore-Boulder und viele andere Höchstleistungen gibt's in unseren Highlights.

Margo Hayes klettert mit Papichulo in Oliana erneut 9a+, Sachi Amma punktet Stoking the Fire (9b) und Giuliano Cameroni eröffnet mit REM (8C) einen Hardcore-Boulder. Diese und viele weitere Höchstleistungen gibt's in unseren Highlights.

Eine Erwähnung wert ist sicherlich Edu Marin, der mit Valhalla (9a+, 14SL) in Getu in China ein ungewöhnliches Projekt abhaken kann. Ähnlich monströs, obwohl nur eine Länge, mutet die Erstbegehung von Jacopo Larcher an: Über sechs Jahre probierte er die Linie in Cadarese, die er nun nach dem Durchstieg Tribe getauft hat, allerdings ohne eine Bewertung abzugeben. Den Titel schwerste Trad-Route der Welt hat sie aber vermutlich verdient.

Die vielen anderen krassen Züge und Durchstiege gibt's wie immer hier im knappen Überblick.

Margo Hayes (US) klettert 'Papichulo' (9a+) in Oliana (ES)

Erstbegehung: Jacopo Larcher (IT) klettert 'Tribe' in Cadarese (IT)

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“Tribe” (E none) ~ I’m thinking since two days what I should write about this journey. After so much effort, I was sure to have too many words to describe it, but the reality is that I can’t find any. I’m simply happy, very happy. I'm thankful for what I’ve learned from it, for the the support of my friends, Babsi and the community… and yes, I’m thankful to myself, because I believed in this dream and I didn’t give up, even if it would have been easier. ~ I brushed this line 6 years ago, on my first trip to Cadarese, when I got into trad climbing. At the beginning it felt completely impossible, but I was obsessed by the beauty of the line and I kept on trying it hoping to find a solution to climb it. It had witnessed my evolution as a trad climber, as well as a lot of up and downs in my life. I kept on trying it, often alone, even if I’d never done the last two moves until a couple of weeks ago; I believed it was possible and at the end the perseverance paid off. It taught me that we always have to believe in our dreams, no matter what, even if someone tells you’re crazy and if it’s not always easy. ~ Now the big question is the grade. Everybody is asking me about it and it seems to be the most important thing about the climb, but for me it is not. I’ve never invested so much time in a route before and I believe it’s the hardest I’ve done so far, but I don’t want to reduce it to a number. It wouldn’t make any sense to me. It seems like nowadays grades are the most important things in climbing and everything else gets forgotten...but at the end of the day, what we will remember is the experience, not a number. ~ to my “Tribe” for sharing with me this process and to the climbing community for all the messages and support. It wouldn’t have been the same without you! ~ Peter, this one is for you ~ @thenorthface @lasportivagram @blackdiamond @frictionlabs @katadyn_group ~ @paolosartophoto

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Jacopo Larcher (@jacopolarcher) am

Sachi Amma (JF) klettert 'Stoking the Fire' (9b) in Santa Linya (ES)

Anna Stöhr (AT) klettert 'Cinque Uve' (8c) in Arco (IT)

Jimmy Webb (US) klettert 'From Dirt grows the Flowers' (Fb 8C)

Jonas Winter (DE) klettert 'Fata mogana bas' (Fb 8A+) in Fontainebleau (FR)

Luis Gerhardt (DE) klettert 'The Story of two Worlds' (Fb 8C) in Cresciano (CH)

Nina Williams (US) klettert 'Too big to flail' (V10/5.13d) in den Buttermilks (US)

Solveig Korherr (DE) klettert 'Transworld Depravity' (5.14a) in der Red River Gorge (US)

Stefano Carnati (IT) klettert 'Sid lives' (9a) in Arco (IT)

Erstbegehung: Thomas Collignon (FR) klettert 'Saoutouba' (Fb 8A+) in Fontainebleau (FR)

Max Räuber (DE) klettert 'Gourmandise raccourci' (Fb 8A+) in Fontainebleau (FR)

Thilo Schroeter (NO) klettert 'Eurofighter' (Fb8B) in

Erstbegehung: Yuji Hirayama (JP) klettert 'Time Machine' (8c+) in Gozeniwa (JP)

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I just want to announce the name of my new route. The name is “Time Machine 8c+,5.14c There are many of my old routes from 1987 and 1988 here in Gozeniwa and Those routes give to me lots of inspirations just being here and just climbing here. And those routes are express a lot of messages from 80s and even I feel like it’s from young Yuji. And today with my new route “Time Machine” will express a lot what we are doing today and Time Machine will bring you to my generation forever. 1 pic, view from the others side of Time Machine. 2 movie, 2017 June One of my beginning of linking attempt. 3 pic, trying hard but always dealing with my knee. 4 movie, moment of red point after 22 months of effort. さて先日登ったプロジェクトの名前を決めました。 名前はTime Machine, 8c+ 高校生の頃通った御前岩で再び本格的に登り始めたのは2015年の暮頃からでした。30年近い月日が経っていましたが、目の前のボルトやスリングは当時のまま、懐かしいと同時に当時の開拓を思い出し十代の自分や当時の景色を来る度に感じることができました。そこには未成熟なクライミング界ではありましたが、今の自分にはない熱い情熱が存在し、一本一本のルートから放たれるエネルギーがリボルト作業を通してメッセージのように伝わってきました。ラインどり、ボルト位置や間隔、全てがアグレッシブで必要最小限で自然との妥協点を見つけ出しているようでした。手打ちで打ったと言うことや高校生でお金がなかった、とかいろいろあるとしても、僕らのクライミングに対する理想の高さが随所に垣間見れたのは事実です。そんな3年半程の間、そのように過去の自分に出会ったり仲間を思い出し、昔の僕らから沢山のメッセージを頂いているようでした。そんなルート達は2017年暮に御前岩が開放されてから沢山の皆んなにも感じて頂けるようになりました。そしてぜひ、この1年10ヶ月の想いや自分からのメッセージをこのTime Machineを通して感じて頂ければなと思います。 1.キャスリウォールから 2.2017年6月 3.膝との付き合いをしながら核心練習 4.2019年3月22日完成 #new50’s #gozeniwa @thenorthfacejp @blackdiamond @beal.official @climbskinspain @climbparkbasecamp @boulderpark_basecamp @basecamptokyo @thenorthfacecup @basecamp.import

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Yuji Hirayama (@stonerideryuji) am

Ashima Shiraishi (US) flasht 'Lethal Design' (V12) in Red Rock Canyon (US)

Manu Cornu (FR) klettert 'Quoi de Neuf' (Fb 8C) in Orsay (FR)

Alex Puccio (US) klettert 'Amber' (Fb 8B) in Brione (CH)

Christof Rauch (AT) klettert 'Nanuk' (Fb 8B+) bei Berchtesgaden (DE)

Erstbegehung: Dai Koyamada (JP) klettert Projekt (V15) am Mt. Hiei (JP)

Flash: Solveig Korherr (DE) klettert 'Kaleidoscope' (5.13c) in der Red River Gorge (US)

Taylor McNeill (US) klettert 'Squoze' (V15) in Nevada (US)

Edu Marin (ES) klettert 'Valhalla' (9a+, 14SL) in Getu (CN)

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¡HOY HEMOS ALCANZADO EL VALHALLA, el techo mas grande del mundo! ⠀ Por fin, después de meses y meses de lucha, de esfuerzo y de mil adversidades, lo hemos logrado. Hemos cumplido un sueño que empezó hace 2 años. ⠀ Las 4 de la mañana: sol, viento y la piedra seca, sin pretensiones ni presión, iba a entrenar. ⠀ Pero hoy era el día, ¡Sabía que hoy no iba a fallar! Valhalla liberado en 9 horas! ⠀ Conquistar el Valhalla no va a ser un destino final! Exhausto, agotado, pero realmente feliz: frustraciones, llantos, alegrías, fracasos, viajes, presiones, dificultades… Pero lo HEMOS logrado. ⠀ Gracias padre por tanto, por estar aquí durante 6 meses. Siempre positivo, siempre aquí, siempre conmigo. ⠀ Gracias hermanito por creer en mí, sin tí nada de esto seria posible! ⠀ Gracias a toda la comunidad y en especial a los que habéis venido hoy a darme apoyo! ⠀ Qué Rico Mambo, gracias por creer en esta locura! ⠀ Ahora sí, puedo decir... Volvemos a casa! ⠀ Filmado y editado por kareldownsbrough.com Concepto: @wearequericomambo ⠀ ⠀ —————— ⠀ TODAY, WE HAVE CLIMBED VALHALLA! ⠀ We climbed the largest roof in the world! ⠀ At last, after many, many months of struggling, effort and thousands of adversities, we’ve done it. We’ve fulfilled a dream that started two years ago. ⠀ 4am with an special feeling: sunshine, wind, no expectations nor pressure, just training. ⠀ But today was the day. I knew I couldn’t fail! So I’ve climbed the whole line in just 9 hours. ⠀ Reaching Valhalla it won’t be an end! Exhausted right now, but happy: frustrations, cryings, joy, fails, travels, pressure, difficulties… But WE did it today! ⠀ Thank you dad for being here during six months. Always positive, always here, always with me. ⠀ Thank you brother for believing on me, this couldn’t have been possible without you! ⠀ Qué Rico Mambo, Thank you to believe in this madness! ⠀ Now I could say… We’re coming back home! ⠀ Filmed & edited by kareldownsbrough.com Concept: @wearequericomambo ⠀ ⠀ Thanks to: ⠀ @petzl_official @borealoutdoor @climbatcenters @entreprisesclimbing @goproes @kuikmeal @ttrinternational

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Edu Marín (@edumarin1) am

Niky Ceria (IT) sammelt harte Boulder in Italien

Federica Mingolla (IT) klettert 'Itaca nel Sole' (8b, 180m) im Valle d'Orco (IT)

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️ ITACA NEL SOLE️ Un viaggio iniziato 4 anni fa in compagnia di un amico che oggi non c'è più. Non ho mai smesso di pensare a quegli specchi di granito perfetti e alla bellezza di quel terrazzo che si affaccia sulla valle dell'Orco. Era diventata quasi un'ossessione Itaca, oggi é diventata realtà È la fine di un viaggio e l'inizio di un altro, l'importante é avere sempre degli obiettivi, anche se i prossimi non sarai tu ad indicarmeli. ️ . . Qualche info sulla via: Caporal 180 m, 8b max, aperta da Gian Piero Motti nel 1975, prima libera @cristianbrenna, prima ripetizione @nicofavresse . . ️ITACA NEL SOLE️ A journey started 4 years ago with a special friend who is no longer there I've never forgotten that route, its granite mirrors and that magic ledge where you can see all the valley ️ It had become almost an obsession. Itaca.. My journey is ended today ️ Now it's real! This is the end of a beautiful and exciting journey, but soon another one will begin, It's important to have always an objective in your life! The only thing is... You won't be with me to tell me which one. . . @miglianoa grazie . . @lasportivagram @petzl_official @dinamicheverticalisrl @asporteyewear @sherpamountainshop . . #climbing_is_my_passion #climbing_girls_of_instagram #climbinglovers #foryourmountain #outdoors #lifestyle #itacanelsole #dream #NonArrendersiMai

Ein Beitrag geteilt von federica mingolla (@federica_mingolla) am

Martin Stranik (CZ) klettert 'Pata Ledovce' (Fb 8C) in

Erstbegehung: Giuliano Cameroni '(CH) klettert 'REM' (Fb 8C+) in Cresciano (CH)

Nadine Wallner (AT) klettert 'Prinzip Hoffnung' (8b/+ E9/E10) an der Bürser Platte (AT)

Reminder aus Ceredo (IT)

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