Harte Züge und krasse Moves: Hier kommen die Highlights der letzten Wochen in Sachen Klettern und Bouldern.
Harte Züge und krasse Moves: Hier kommen die Highlights der letzten Wochen in Sachen Klettern und Bouldern.
Vom Frankenjura bis in die Schweiz, von den USA bis nach Spanien: Hier gibt es die härtesten Züge der letzten Wochen im Überblick.
BÄÄÄÄM Can‘t believe it yet, but yesterday was THE day! After so many tries to find ‚Apokalypse now’ fb 8B/+] in climbable conditions, mostly leaving the bloc without even trying it, it feels facilitating to finally get there with good conditions and make it to the top. @scarpa_de @prana @petzl_official
Two days ago I solo-sessioned one of my nemesis projects with two pads. I worked the moves in sections, starting with the middle, then the end, and finally the beginning, refreshing my muscle memory. I figured I would come back another day with 4-5 pads and a couple spotters. Yet all of a sudden I found myself through the crux from the start I hadn’t had any thoughts of sending; I was just climbing! . I didn’t expect to send. Not in a bad way... More a common sense way. With minimal pads and no spotters, I was just there to climb. I suspected it might even be a waste of time. What was the point if there was no possibility of sending? . Turns out, it CAN be a waste of time if you go to send. But it’s never a waste of time if you go just to climb . Bambi (V12) @thecircuitclimbing from one of my many past sessions. #climbing #bouldering @adidasterrex @fiveten_official @organicclimbing @musclepharm @nativeeyewear @blackdiamond
Well we’ve had lots of rain this trip. 3 days of climbing so far in the 13 days we’ve been here. It’s definitely not ideal but Kevin and I have managed. I honestly think we can just give the boulangeries all the credit there! Nonetheless today was a good day! I climbed an amazing project in Apremont Envers that I tried last season and one day already this season. It’s a sit start to an already established line called Ph12. The low adds a couple hard moves and a desperately high foot ( for me ) that then leads you into the crux of the stand. Pretty amazing actually! Even with all the days of rain we’ve had .. just one good moment on this stone makes it all worth it. Stoked to have a couple more weeks in this amazing place! @kevintakashismith with the ‘Ph13’ 8B #bouldering #fontainebleau @hippytree @fiveten_official @organicclimbing @metoliusclimbing
Well in typical Fontainebleau style we are truly waiting out the bad weather. Spending our time hiking around this soaked yet extremely gorgeous forest. Our first couple days though we managed to find some dry things. Including this newish boulder in the back of Cuvier. Hard to beat the rock on this rig and I was extremely stoked to tic it off before the weather came in. @kevintakashismith with the grab. ‘Saruman du bas’ 8B. #font #bouldering @hippytree @fiveten_official @organicclimbing @metoliusclimbing
Well when our original plans of spending 5 weeks in Fontainebleau got buried by snow we decided to make a quick trip to Ticino before heading back home to the US. The weather looked beautiful and I was super motivated to climb and enjoy the sun. On the first day we went to Cresciano where I re visited an old project of mine. 4 years ago I spent countless days trying this thing and was never able to put it to rest. It was a massive mental and physical battle for me and it killed me to not be able to complete it. Fast forward now 4 years and with a different perspective I was able to complete the line on my first day back. Words can’t really describe the feeling of topping out something on your life list and I had to sit there for a while and reflect on what this single rock meant to me. Massive thanks to @fred_nicole for pioneering such an incredible boulder so that I can enjoy it almost 18 years later. ‘Dreamtime’ 8C .. cheers of course to @kevintakashismith for the #bouldering #switzerland @hippytree @fiveten_official @organicclimbing @metoliusclimbing
Like I said before discovery is the name of the game for me. I’m obsessed with the unknown. Always searching and wondering when you’re going to turn the corner and find one of the best boulders in the world. It’s an addictive feeling and though i find a lot of rock it’s very rare to find something that is truly world class. A couple weeks ago though I did find something incredible. A massive arete towering out of a chaotic river over a perfect landing. From day one I didn’t know if it could go and even on day two I was left scratching my head. So it goes with technical granite! Then on day 3, with the help of @carlodenali, I was finally set on the method that was going to work for me. Later on that afternoon, with the sun fading and the river roaring I managed my way through the bottom crux and kept it together to the top. The overall process to create something so beautiful is the best feeling I can have in my climbing. I absolutely love this shit! ‘Yayali’ V14 FA .. For those of you interested in the name, Yayali was a mythical beast to the Miwok people who originally inhabited this region. The granite boulders scattered through the Sierra are said to be the bleached bones of this dead giant. . Cheers @kevintakashismith for the stellar photo and name inspiration! Now.. where’s the next one? @hippytree @fiveten_official @organicclimbing @metoliusclimbing
Sent Jungle Speed (9a) today. Savage opening boulder (hard 8B) to an 8a outro. @will_bosi climbed the line first after the break. The hold that broke used to be a full pad incut edge for the left hand, and now it is completely gone (leaving a quarter pad edge made of sika). Now you have a left hand half pad 2 finger spike to use to get right hand into the upside down shoulder breaker gaston move. 4 days to get er done. Almost done bouldering on a rope Photo @jon_cardwell
Had great weekend in Arco @gardatrentino not only thanks to Silence premiere, but thanks to climbing too. Despite bad weather forecast, conditions were amazing. We spent two days in Massone, I ticked all the remaining hard routes and projects. Probably 1st repeat of "X-Large" 8c (my suggestion 8c+) 1st ascent of "Pure Dreaming" (same start like Reini's, then left) 9a 1st ascent of the link up (Underground into Pure Dreaming) 9a+ Pic by @giampaolocalza in Athena 8c. @montura_official @blackdiamond @lasportivagram @mytendon
My first “fist ascent”!:-) Two weeks ago, my friend Bernd was bolting a route in the sector Hada. After cleaning, he sent me first exploring with 30 quickdraws around my hips. The process from breaking lots of holds and footholds to sending this clean 5 star route today has been rad! Thanks Bernd for the Swarm, 8b and the great teamwork! Photo Benoit Merlin #firstascent #leonidioclimbing #scarpaclimb #teamwork @petzl_official @scarpa_spa @arcteryx
Sweet Font session yesterday ️ Feeling in a better shape I managed the ascents of « La théorie des jeux 8a+/v12, “Ouroboros” 8a+/v12 and “Déforestation” 8a/v11 coming soon on my Facebook profile Let’s see tomorrow what offer the good conditions @ocun.climbing @verticalartclimbing #fontainebleau #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #climbing #bouldering #escalade #ocun #verticalart #teamverticalart
A week ago today I climbed Cypher (8B) at Slipstones in North Yorkshire. I remember seeing the video of Ben and that famous leg kick when I first started climbing and hoping that one day I’d get to try it. Last Thursday that day came and I have to say it really is a very special move; it feels so unnatural and yet I’m sure it is the easiest, if not the only, way to do that small hand movement. Anyway, enjoy the video of the send and if you want to see a slightly longer one check out the link in my profile. @moonclimbing @fiveten_official #ukbouldering #legkick #tbt #gritstone #cypher
Back to climbing! @griffinwhiteside showed me some really good line that aren’t in the guide a few days ago. I directly wanted to try this line when I saw the wall... picture is “Lex Luthor, V13”, a combination of two really big moves to the left in a pure wall. I also flashed “Superman, V10”, and climbed “#tall, V9/10” which is a big highball. Last two days out were really cold and it was really hard to stay warm enough to climb, I can’t explain how much it hurt my fingers. ️ . #pourla2 #milletriseup @millet_mountain @flathold @lookmontagne @blackdiamond @climbskinspain #joesvalley pics by @mathieu.achermann
And it was worth to wait, be patient and let the skin heal ”Pati noso, 8c+” didn’t feel as pati noso today! Also had the rest of the crew here today from Oliana to join the train @jon_cardwell was racing up the ’”Estado Critico, 9a” at the same time, soon after @honngy crushed it too and then @dawoods89 took down the ”Jungle Speed, 9a” and being the first one doing it after a hold broke! TEAM SEEEND and time to hit our traditional place to celebrate @goma2cafe Thanks for my sponsors @mountainhardwear @blackdiamond @tah.to @kiipeilyareena @lasportivagram . Now time to cruise a little first and start to seek some new challenges Thanks again for the pic @jon_cardwell Good to have u guys back!
Everyone always leaves the photo cred til the end, so I’ll just slink this one in. @tarakerzhner, way to manage those painters poles! A life goal achieved! Finally held that little coin stack long enough to slot my hand in that crackie chan and hold on for the ride to the top. After working Necessary Evil 3 years ago and bailing because it got to warm, I spent the last 2 months of 2017 moonboarding and weight training according to my training program written by @justensjong. I asked Justen to write me a training program to prep for NE during the harvest season in Namibia. I had a lot of very picky constraints: 14 hour work days in the pack house meant I only had an hour to train each day, maybe 2 on Sunday, and basically zero mental or emotional energy. The only equipment I had available was my moonboard, a BeastMaker, rings, a trx, and dumbbells. I was not willing to do cardio because I knew I would be too tired from work, and who wants to run or do much of anything when it’s over 100 degrees outside? I stuck to my program, enjoying the hour of physical relief each day after work, without having to put in the mental effort of choosing workouts or deciding whether to commit to another set (also air conditioning, yay). I followed what the program said, and came out on the other end with more power than perhaps I’ve ever had. I rocked up to the VRG having not tied into a rope or climbed outside in 3 months. But that meant 3 months of pent up excitement. My fitness was pretty low, and I got pumped between every bolt, but I climbed a bonus route each day after trying NE to build up my fitness. After 3 weeks, I sent my fitness proj (Dude), rested for 2 days, prayed for confidence, and ate a bunch of sweet potatoes, and voilá, the magic concoction worked. Here’s to not needing the fanciest gym in the world, or even a gym at all to train for your goals. Motivation is sometimes all you need. Thanks to @emilyaharrington for all your support and pump up songs. And @arjandekock for helping me stay confident and psyched and also to my parents for coming out at the beginning of my trip to support and belay me! The end.
Like aNecessary Evil was a prickly process (but cool to see). I was too excited to write a longer post after sending, so here it is: I would be lying if I said that this process was easy and without it’s own unique struggles. While I have climbed at this level before, NE is a completely different style for me- and honestly not one that I think I am particularly good at. I excel on steeper climbing with less powerful moves (like in the Red River Gorge, KY) and I am not used to focusing so much attention on my footwork. To my surprise, the beta and sequences on NE came together very quickly. However, the send felt anything but. It became an emotional battle with myself, I have a habit setting my expectations very high. I began to fall on the upper crux moves 4 times a day over the course of 2 weeks. I was disappointed and frustrated with myself for not being able to close on this project- I was just punting! Ultimately, what led to my success was realizing that I needed to relax and be patient. The combination of internal and external pressures made me feel like I was in a hurry to send, but actually there was no deadline, it was just me. I am still figuring out how not to be a serial stresser… but each new challenge teaches me something new. . STAY TUNED FOR THE WITH @digitalstokephoto @johnloellong @adidasterrex @petzl_official @fiveten_official
Today I did La Rambla (9a+). I never felt so loved and supported by all my people. So I just want to say thanks. Thanks to all those that supported me all the way here, that believed in me in every single moment, even in the darkest ones: friends (my man @super_sloper and the always inspirational @dani_andrada_climb), family, sponsors ( @scarpaspain @3rdrocking @bealropes @climbaround ), and especially my partner and soulmate: @cristinaballesta. Now a new future opens, everything is ahead of me, but the history is strong too and I feel it in every single bone! @iliakarpenko —- Hoy he encadenado La Rambla (9a+). Sólo quiero dar las gracias. Gracias a todos los que me habéis apoyado durante todo este tiempo. Gracias a todos mis amigos (en especial a @super_sloper y el siempre inspirador @dani_andrada_climb), a mis sponsors (@3rdrocking, @bealropes #wearebeal y @scarpaspain, @scarpaspa @climbaround ), y en especial gracias a @cristinaballesta por estar siempre a mi lado. Me siento muy afortunado de teneros a todos. @iliakarpenko
Frogger (8A) is definitely among the most unique rock features in one of the most beautiful places on earth I‘ve been trying this problem on and off over the past 4 years and always struggled with the first move. Yesterday I could do it almost every try and finally made it happen, so stoked!! Incredibly satisfying to see so much progress, seems like training is paying off! Great shot as usual by @daverousd from last year @petzl_official @fiveten_official @prana #climbing #bouldering #ticino #brione #happyplace #liveclimbrepeat #nevergiveup #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #girlswhoclimb #girlsboulder #swissclimbing #swissteam #accesstheinaccessible #brandofthebrave
"Mithrill sit" 8B+ !!! Cold and sunny day in Cresciano allowed me to make a quick send of this powerful Boulder opened by @giuliano_cameroni . Hands down to @gabrimoroni who cleaned the top slab from moss and realized a full line! Shitty By @alexey_rubtsov, who had to make a shitty video after I shot a even worse video of him yesterday I had this one coming . @e9clothing @carbongrip @campusclimbing #e9team #carbongrip
Send “Gekirin (v15)”that one of hardest boulder in Kyoshu from @dai_koyamada . It has unique holding for best,hard traverse and crux.I was suffer from the crux move. Sick photo from @i_chikara 九州最難に九州男児の腕っ節をと思い、前回の龍頭泉でカラムーチョを登った後、気になっていた”逆鱗(5段+)”。オリジナルムーブと違うムーブを見つけ、手数は減ったけど、核心の遠い一手が難しい。繋げトライの核心で数回落ちたけど、その後数トライで核心がバチっと止まり登れました。1手目があまりしたことないホールディングで、岩ならではの理不尽だけど出来て楽しいというのが印象的でした。 古賀さん、一日中付き合っていただいて、ありがとうございました @fiveten_official @mountainhardwear.jp @frictionlabs @organicclimbing @up.athlete
"The Story of 2 Worlds", 8C, Cresciano @stefankuerzi . . . @scarpaspa @moonclimbing #Swiss #Switzerland #Schweiz #Austria #Österreich #Tirol #Cresciano #Chironico #Zillertal #rock #boulder #klettern #climbing #mountains #Tessin #Ticino #scarpaspa #scarpaclimb #scarpa #moonclimbing #iloooveit #doyouboulder #climbing_lovers #escalade #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #climbing_worldwide #climbing_is_my_passion #climbinginspiration #climax_magazine
There is so much to do in the Frankenjura! This weekend I managed to climb some amazing lines like "Backgammon", 8A+ "Phaeton", 8B "Hips don't lie", 8B "Hips don't lie sit", 8B+ Thanks to @simon_weisser for this awesome shot! . . . @scarpaspa @moonclimbing #Germany #Deutschland #Bayern #Austria #Österreich #Tirol #Frankenjura #Zillertal #project #rock #boulder #klettern #climbing #mountains #winter #Franken #scarpaspa #scarpaclimb #scarpa #moonclimbing #iloooveit #doyouboulder #climbing_lovers #escalade #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #climbing_worldwide #climbing_is_my_passion #climbinginspiration #extremebouldering
Ohhhh my god! Sooo happy! When I went to Arco for some routeclimbing I didn't expect to come home with a 9a route in my pocket. On the first day I was lucky enough to climb "Bucking Bronco" (8c+) on my 3rd try, afterwards I decided to check out the neighbouring route "Sid Lives" (9a). After a quick check I realized that it suits my style pretty well and got really syked to come back the next day. I checked out the moves two more times and after an epic fail on my 4th try from the start I was lucky enough to put it together. Psyched! . . . @scarpaspa @moonclimbing #Italy #Italien #Trentino #Austria #Österreich #Tirol #Arco #Nago #project #rock #boulder #klettern #climbing #mountains #winter #garda #scarpaspa #scarpaclimb #scarpa #moonclimbing #iloooveit #doyouboulder #climbing_lovers #escalade #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #climbing_worldwide #climbing_is_my_passion #climbinginspiration #extremebouldering
I might be the proudest guy on earth at the moment. My hardest climb and route to which I’ve been most devoted, Life of Villains is finished. The last 2 months and 2 days have been the most intense and emotional ride I’ve had in my climbing career. I’m now sitting here feeling calm, serene and complete. It’s weird. I think it’s going to take a while to process. It’s an FA. It’s my hardest and I believe it’s 9a+ but all of that feels like a bunch of petty labels that attempt to validate something. Yeah I’m a pro climber but more than anything I’m a passionate climber and I can’t even begin to equate this experience to a number or grade or any other term. The story of this climb is a deeper conversation and one I’ll take with me forever. Moments like this only happen once in a while and I couldn’t be f’ing happier to end the story how it has. I sincerely thank those of you who supported my effort and follow through. Life feels pretty good right now. Hehe. L.O.V. Joe Photo: @joe_segreti