KL Leon Fraunholz klettert The Dagger 8B im Tessin Luis Gerhardt

Klettern extrem - aktuelle Begehungen von Dave Graham und anderen

Highlights: Graham, Unger, Leistner und mehr

Im Überblick: Harte Boulder und Routen, die in den letzten Wochen geklettert wurden. Dabei: Simon Unger, Robert Leistner, Dave Graham und viele mehr.

Simon Unger (DE) klettert 'The Dagger' (Fb 8B+) in Cresciano (CH)

... und 'Off the Wagon' (Fb

Dave Graham (US) klettert 'La Rambla' (9a+) in Siurana (ES)

Robert Leistner (DE) klettert 'Bleu sacré' (Fb 8B) in Fontainebleau (FR)

Leon Fraunholz klettert 'The Dagger' (Fb 8B+) in Chironico (CH)

... und 'Shadowfax' (Fb 8b) in Chironico (CH)

... und 'Santoku' (Fb 8B) in Bodio, Tessin (CH)

Luis Gerhardt (DE) klettert 'Delusion of Grandeur' (Fb 8A+) im Tessin (CH)

Erstbegehung: Gabriele Moroni (IT) klettert 'Twiga' (Fb 8B+?) im Val d'Aosta (IT)

Alex Puccio (US) klettert 'New Map of Hell' (V12) und flasht 'Wooden Mushroom' (V10)

Stefano Ghisolfi (IT) klettert 'Queen Line' (9b) in Arco (IT)

Nalle Hukkataival (FI) klettert 'Sleepwalker' (V16) in Red Rock Canyon (US)

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Last year I opened this project in Red Rocks and after putting in the work was close to climbing it - falling off the last move. Then frigid winter temperatures claimed the canyon. Even sticking around for two more months trying to seal the deal, I never got a fighting chance. Returning for a rematch this winter I routinely worked my way back to where I‘d been - hoping to get an actual shot this year. It was really refreshing to finally session the boulder with someone. @jwebxl and @dawoods89 had teamed up earlier this winter to take it down. Their beta however was of no use for me. Ultimately the boulder is about a friction sloper crux with a barely-there bicycle to gain the slot crimp. Jimmy and Daniel both had the arm-span to bypass this sequence so I was alone fighting my own fight. This low percentage, friction reliant sequence - combined with my skin issues in the desert - made for low odds to catch the conditions I required. Half the “climbing” days consisted of just showing up and not being able to get any grip on the rock. Or do any climbing. It all boiling down to weather watching and very little actual climbing put a big dent in my motivation and made me question whether it’s even worthwhile to keep dragging myself out there day after day. Yesterday I sent it. It was quite anticlimactic. It didn’t seem like anything that I hadn’t already done 10 times. My skin just didn’t fail me that time. I‘m happy it didn’t. All in all, stoked!! Also a lesson to be learned about how not every battle is necessarily worth fighting. I struggle when climbing becomes all about managing external factors and very minimally about the actual climbing. Just hours later another winter storm put an end to climbing here for a while. You’re bound to get lucky every now and then! Yes!! In-depth video piece coming from @mindframecinema @blackdiamond @lasportivagram

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Nalle Hukkataival (@nalle_hukkataival) am

Guntram Jörg (AT) klettert 'Arzak' (Fb 8C) im Murgtal (CH)

Keenan Takahashi (US) klettert 'The Seventh Circle' (V14) in Hueco Tanks (US)

Thomas Lindinger (DE) klettert 'Wirbeljet' (Fb 8B) im Frankenjura (DE)

Thilo Schröter (NO) flasht 'Nagual' (V13) in Hueco Tanks (US)

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Nagual • V13 • Flash ⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀ ⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀ I usually don’t set myself goals other than climbing boulders that are appealing. Setting a grade or result oriented goal is more than often disappointing and not very motivating, for me at least. But for this trip I wanted to challenge myself and see if I could make a proper V13 flash happen, as I really enjoy the challenge of flashing regardless of grade. I’ve flashed one 8B before - Monkey Business in Rocklands three years ago, but that one is pretty low end, and I wanted to prove to myself that I could do it again, and hopefully on a more regular basis. I got heartbreakingly close on Vecchio Leone is Brione two years ago, but since then it’s been dry. Hueco seemed like an “easy” place to flash hard with it’s physically challenging boulders so I was psyched! Initially I had looked out Crown of Aragon and checked it out on a few occasions, but Nagual was definitely a contender as well. I of course wanted to wait for the right moment as it takes some time to get past the jet lag and adapt to the style, not to mention skin and conditions. I waited long, for six weeks, and after two rest days on our last day in the Tanks it was time to give one of them a fucking memorable effort. I decided to put all my eggs in the Nagual-basket. My skin couldn’t have been any better and a nice breeze was going through the cave. I was ready. I pulled on. The beginning of the boulder felt really casual and it felt like I couldn’t let go, but it quickly turned into a huge fight, and the last moves were extremely shaky and desperate, it felt like my fingers were pushed to the very limit. The feeling of topping this one out has to be the highlight of the trip. Psyched to make this little Hueco-goal of mine a reality, and happy for the good times I’ve had out here in Hueco with Tina and all the other good people! One more week in Red Rocks awaits us before we’re headed back home to the cold.

Ein Beitrag geteilt von THILO SCHRÖTER (@thiloschroeter) am

Matt Fultz (US) klettert 'Memory is Parallax' & 'Mind to Motion' (beide V14) in Colorado (US)

Madeleine Cope (GB) klettert 'Mind Control' (8c) in Oliana (ES)

Florian Wientjes (DE) klettert 'The Kingdom' (Fb 8B+) im Tessin (CH)

Samuel Ometz (CH) klettert 'Non à la Bombe' & 'Chromosome Y' (beide 8C+)

Erstbegehung: Jonas Winter (DE) klettert 'The Hitchhiker' (Fb 8A+) im Tessin (CH)

... und 'Off the Wagon' (Fb 8B+) im Tessin (CH)

Martin Keller (CH) klettert 'The Story of Two Worlds' (Fb 8C) im Tessin (CH)

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14 years after i first did stand underneath that boulder i finally was able to send @dave_graham_ masterpiece „STORY OF TWO WORLDS, 8C“ in cresciano. . another dream came true - it doesn’t get much more classic!!! . dare to dream big - put in the time and work - focus and enjoy the process - eventually you will send - its all in your mind!!! . after falling in true „martin-style“ at the very last move a week before i finally was able to put the whole line together (i started the line from @dai_koyamada ‚s low-start; adding even more funkiness to the line (and thanks to some new crucial beta not really harder then the original start at all anymore). . it was a great journey; this process again that you can turn the impossible into the possible - if you dare to dream big, take your time and keep going no matter what, but still try to act smart - and most of all: it was simply damn fun to climb on this iconic line!!! . . . so its about time to switch again - onto the next journey - cause its all about the process, the experiences you make; the people you meet; after so much time you start to understand that the final destination doesn’t really matter that much anymore . . —> more details (pics/vids) on the whole process on my blog —> link in profile! . . . - pic1; holding the swing on the last crux on the sendburn; pic by @cat__ballou . . -pic2; getting inspired; WHAT A LINE. pic by @hanneskutza . . -pic3; getting inspired and dream big; @dave_graham_ showing how its done back in 2005 @laylazz_ and myself with the ”spot” . -pic4: 2009; climbing the standstart „the dagger, 8B+“ . -vid5; putting in the time and work . -pic6; be smart!!! analyze failure; learn; send!! . -vid7; SEND!!! . —>full vid from the ascent soon @mellowclimbing . . .

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Martin Keller (@swizzybouldering) am

Sean Bailey (US) klettert 'Joe Mama' (9a+) in Oliana (ES)

... und 'Seleccio Natural' (9b) in Santa Linya (ES)

Seb Bouin (FR) klettert 'Pachamama' (9a+) in Oliana (ES)

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Yesterday everything went well, and I had the chance to send the king line Pachamama in Oliana ! This line is for me one of the best in Oliana (or the best ). Thank's @chris_sharma for bolting this one. Luckily I didn't fall in the last slab . I am happy to add my name to this short list : @chris_sharma @sachiamma @jonathansiegrist @jakob.schubert @adam.ondra @patxiusobiaga_pucseries About the grade, it could be a hard 9a+ - 5.15a (some climbers proposed 9a+/b - 5.15a/b). I have to take a day to think about it . Anyway, this line is beautiful and need more repetitions. Venga @jon_cardwell ! Special thank's to the joker belayer @jorgverhoeven and @lei2434 for the patience ! Now direction France to do some coaching. • Hier tout s'est bien déroulé, et j'ai eu la chance d'enchaîner la king line Pachamama à Oliana ! Cette ligne est pour moi l'une des plus belle à Oliana (voir la plus belle). Merci @chris_sharma d'avoir équipé celle ci. Heureusement je ne suis pas tombé dans la dalle finale . Je suis content d'ajouter mon nom à cette short liste : @chris_sharma @sachiamma @jonathansiegrist @jakob.schubert @adam.ondra @patxiusobiaga_pucseries A propos de la cotation, cela pourrait être un 9a+ dur, certains grimpeurs proposaient 9a+/b. Je vais prendre un jour pour réfléchir à cela . Mais de toute façon cette ligne est somptueuse et demande plus de répétitions. Venga @jon_cardwell ! Mention spéciale à l'assureur joker @jorgverhoeven et @lei2434 pour la patience ! Maintenant direction la France pour les coachings. Pic by @jon_cardwell Thank's to support me in these projects @blackdiamond @eb_climbing @amazonas_ultralight @kayland_official @climbskin @natureclimbing

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Seb Bouin (@sebbouin) am

Erstbegehung: Giuliano Cameroni (CH) klettert 'Poison the Well' (Fb 8C+) in Brione (CH)

Michiel Nieuwenhuijsen (NL) klettert 'Mécanique Elémentaire' (Fb 8B+) und 'Jour de Chasse' (Fb 8B) in Bleau (FR)

Guillaume Glairon Mondet (FR) klettert 'Ph13' (FB 8B) in Fontainebleau (FR)

Barna Kerenyi (HU) klettert 'Delusion of Grandeur' (Fb 8B) im Tessin (CH)

Stefano Carnati (IT) klettert 'Heritage' (Fb 8B) im Val Bavona (CH)

Marco Zanone (IT) klettert 'Coup de Grace' (9a) im Val Bavona (CH)

Erstbegehung: Hansjörg Auer (AT) eröffnet Route an der Rofele Nordwand (AT)

Jon Cardwell (US) klettert 'Joe Mama' (9a+) in Oliana (ES)

Jim Pope (GB) klettert 'Appointment with Death' (E9/6C) in Wimberry (GB)

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