Kletternews

Erstbegehungen & harte Sends

Wer hat was geklettert? Highlights der letzten Wochen, dabei: Alex Megos, Dörte Pietron, Jonas Winter, Cathérine Choong, Max Prinz, Markus Bock, Leon Fraunholz und weitere.

Erstbegehung: Alexander Megos klettert Zoolander (9a) in Red River Gorge (US)

Dave Graham klettert Hypnotized Minds (Fb 8C+) in RMNP

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Hypnotized Minds [8C+] ������✔️������ It’s pretty thrilling news to share that on Tuesday I finally climbed this incredible problem first ascended by legend @dawoods89 ������������������ I have been trying this problem seriously for the past 7 years, but remember my first days in the park as a young lad staring up at this line, already entranced ������The saga really starts with me falling off the last move twice, deep into the winter season, just before rupturing my A2 pulley in Mexico back in 2013 ������ Fast forward two years when I was finally all healed for crimping and I broke off a key left foot for the crux move, reducing my highpoint and beta to ashes; It felt like was starting from scratch ������ I was still obsessed. I dedicated every Fall and Spring season to sieging Hypno, abandoning any other climbing goals in hope that I could rise above and conquer this sequence, yet amidst unpredictable sub-alpine conditions, it wasn’t so simple. Most of my friends abandoned my effort, and I started regularly climbing alone on the boulder. Struggling to see my errors by myself, it became a new type of challenge. The pattern of shoveling the boulder out between weekly storms and the long solo drives started to become synonymous with the idea of making attempts ������ Until this October. First day went really well, I realized my new @fiveten_official Dragons were game changing on both crux moves allowing me to get the crack pocket correctly from the start, and give me a fair sticking the high left pinch from the ground. Day 2 I came super close to sticking the pinch, I felt stronger physically then I ever had, and more calm in the mind. Day 3 was 65 at the parking, pretty warm for my taste, but as a snow storm was rolling in it seemed smart to give at least a few tries. First go I fell off the last move (can’t wait to share that ������), second go at the crux, and third try, I SENT ������ IG won’t let me elaborate more this post but I can’t wait to share the entire story with everyone, and the send!!! Thanks for the support from my homies who believed in me (you know who you are amigos ������������) and @alizee_dufraisse for reminding me I can actually do what I set my mind to ������ time to enjoy the FREEDOM ������������!!!!

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Dave Graham (@dave_graham_) am

Dörte Pietron (DE) klettert Südwild (10) am Hochwiesler, Tannheimer Tal (AT)

Erstbegehung: Markus Bock (DE) klettert Sidewinder (Fb 8A+) im Frankenjura

Jonas Winter (DE) klettert Saruman du bas (Fb 8B+) in Fontainebleau (FR)

Seb Bouin (FR) klettert Patanics (9b) in Rodellar (ES)

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Patanics ✔️ ~ 9b? - 5.15b? Nothing will perturb a climbing trip ! It started with a car broken on the road, continued with huge rain and wet project, to finish with a piece of metal in the eye... Yet we will be here untill the end ������. I fell on the last move of this route on my second day. I was thinking to be able to do it with one more climbing day. Then came the rain and everything was wet. I was hoping that the route get dry quickly. Yet, it's still wet now. I had to reorganize my betas in the wet sequences. I finaly find something ok when I got a piece of metal (quickdraw?) on my eye. I went to emergency, and specialist who remove the metal and told me to keep a patch on the eye during two days (picture 2). I tried climbing with only one eye, yet it was impossible to do 7b... I finaly decided to remove the patch for a try in Patanics, and it was the good one ������. About the grade question, I am thinking it can't be 9b if I compare to my last realizations (Mamichula, Move, and La rage d'Adam). For me it feels closer to 9a/+. Yet the route is 100% my style, that's why my opinion is to propose a downgrade to a 9a+. But it's my opinion, and I am open to discuss with next repetitors. Now on to next projects Thanks @julia.cassou for the pics Patanics ~ 9b? ✔️ Rien ne peut perturber un trip grimpe. Ça a commencé avec une voiture cassée sur la route, puis un déluge qui a tout mouillé, pour finir avec un bout de métal planté dans l'œil... Je suis tombé au dernier mouvement de cette voie lors de mon second jour dedans. Je pensais alors que j'allais enchaîné lors de la prochaine journée de grimpe. Mais il y a eu quelques pertubations. Tout d'abord le déluge a trempé tout rodellar. J'espérais que ça sèche rapidement, mais c'est toujours mouillé. J'ai donc dû trouver de nouvelles méthodes pour les séquences mouillées. Puis, j'ai réussi à me planter un bout de métal dans l'œil (dégaine?). S'en ai suivi un tour au urgence, puis chez un ophtalmo qui a retiré le métal et m'a mit un pansement (photo 2). J'ai essayé de grimper avec un seul œil, mais je n'arrivais pas à faire les voies d'echauff. J'ai pour finir retiré le pansement pour mettre un essai finalement fructeux

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Seb Bouin (@sebbouin) am

Nico Secomandi (CH) klettert Bourguignon (FB 8B) in Murg (CH)

Jonas Schild (CH) klettert Victimes del Futur (9a) in Margalef (ES)

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VICTIMES DEL FUTUR 9a I still can’t really belief it. Yesterday I could send “Victimes del Futur”, my first 9a. What a great Line through the big roof of Finestra. Falling all the time at the same move made it quite a mental game. So happy that it worked yesterday. This route was a long history for myself but I’m glad that I decided to come back to Spain after being so close last spring. For finishing the day I gave a go in “Aitzol” 8b+, which I did always after some tries in Victimes, and fortunately this side project went also down. It was a great day with great friends! Now I have to come to another issue which I don’t really like but I think it’s still important. I wrote my first 9a. Like some people know I climbed “Cabane au Canada” already many years ago. Originally this route was graded 9a but it was always said that it’s easier. For me it never felt like a 9a because i used a lot less effort to climb Cabane au Canada than all the other 8c’s and 8c+’s I did. So I said always for me its 8c+ and also most of the people who climbed this route said the same. And now with climbing Victimes del Futur which is confirmed as 9a by many climbers who definitely have this level, I really can say “Cabane au Canada” is 8c+. Maybe it’s now official. I really don’t like talking about grades but to be honest it’s a very important feature of climbing. After talking about numbers let’s talk about the really important stuff: Thanks a lot to all my friends, family and sponsors for supporting me all the time. Without you it wouldn't be possible.������������ • • ������ by @simon_weisser • • @mammut_swiss1862 @baechlibergsport #anghelobenaldo #aitzol #bächlixathlet #ballern #cabaneaucanada #cafevernet #campingmargalef #catalunya #climbing #climbingpicturesofinstagram #climbinglovers #climbingcatalunya #climbingmargalef #crimpinghard #downgrade #espagne������������ #finestra #loveclimbing #margalef #margalefclimbing #official #thankful #trainhard #tryhardorgohome #victimesdelfutur #project #projectdone #steep #weareclimbers #9a

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Jonas Schild (@jonasschild) am

Catherine Choong (CH) klettert Jungfraumarathon (9a) in GImmelwald (CH)

Cedric Lachat (CH) klettert La Rambla (9a+) in Siurana (ES)

Yannick Glatthard (CH) klettert Golden Gate (5.13, 41SL) am El Capitan (US) frei

Charlotte Frank (DE) klettert Mundo feliz (8b+) in Villanueva del Rosario (ES)

Giani Clément (CH) klettert Ill Trill (Fb 8B+) im Magic Wood

Leon Fraunholz (DE) klettert UG 1+2+3 (9a) in Magic Wood (CH)

Joerg Verhoeven (NL) klettert Synergieeffekt (8c+) und Kraftplatzl (9a) im Ötztal (AT)

Kim de Wolff (DE) klettert Riverbed (Fb 8B) im Magic Wood (CH)

Christof Rauch (AT) klettert Scarred for Life (Fb 8B+) in Fionnay (CH)

Max Prinz (DE) klettert Karma (Fb 8A+) in Fontainebleau (FR)

Louis Parkinson (GB) klettert Steppenwolf (Fb 8B) in Magic Wood (CH)

Aleksandra Taistra (PL) klettert Hotel Supramonte (8b, 6SL) auf Sardinien (IT)

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Friday October 11th I clipped all 11 chains of Hotel Supramonte 8b 400m (7b+,7c+,8b,8a+,8b,7c,7a+,7b+,7b,7b,6b+) for a perfect no-fall day. I have known the route from last season when I had really bad luck with conditions. This year the hardest part was to find climbing partner that would like to climb with me or support me in my project. I decided come to Sardinia alone and with a little help of my friend Valter, put some fixed ropes and practiced the crux pitches with my little @petzl_official friends croll and microtraxion. Meantime I was waiting for someone that I can climb with. During September I had the opprtunity to climb with one friendfor a while but the temperatures were so high that I wouldn’t call it properly climbing ������ In Octobre my boyfriend @readmacadam who went to equip new sport climbing zones in Saudi Arabia bought a ticket and convinced our friend Simone Papalia to come to Sardinia. In our second day of climbing (with 2 days rest between) I was able to finish my dream with a big smile on my face :) This day I climbed quite fast. I needed 5 hours to climb 1st 6 pitches (7b+, 7c+,8b, 8a+,8b,7c...) When I arrived to last pitch 6b+ the stressfull situation started. I had to climb 50m of poorly protected (2 bolts) 6b+ in complete darkness. I got lost in the wall and tried to improve my trad skills ;) My climbing partner Simone Papila @simolsg was great support that give me faith that I climb each pitch and finish my story with Hotel this day. I also would like to thanks Valter De Lucia @imago_valter for fantastic support last season. I have never supposed how big an effort it would be to climb so many pitches in a row without giving up. I would like to express myself well but it’s quite hard to speak about feelings that everybody should experience alone to understand what is going on... . . . ������ @readmacadam @lasportivagram @frictionlabs @climbskinspain @sensfood #frictionlabs #chalkmatters @gorropu.info #hotelsupramonte @woguclimbing @revistaescalar @climbingmagazine #climbing_worldwide @pareticlimbingmagazine @climbing_sardinia climbing @ortoblock @klettern.magazin @gory.magazyn #wspinanie #wspinaniepl #wspinaczka #multipitchclimbing

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Aleksandra Taistra (@alekstaistra) am

Andrea Cartas (ES) klettert La Rubia (8c+) in Villanueva del Rosario (ES)

Obed Hardmeier (CH) klettert Alpenbitter (9a) in Gimmelwald (CH)

Alexander Rohr (CH) klettert Jungfraumarathon (9a) in Gimmelwald (CH)

Erstbegehung: Barna Karenyi (HU) klettert Padavan B (Fb 8A+) in Magic Wood (CH)

Erstbegehung: Alexander Huber (DE) und Guido Unterwurzacher (AT) klettern Koasabluad (8b+, 7SL) an der Maukspitze

Onsight: Colin Duffy (US) klettert Omaha Beach (5.14a) onsight, Southern Smoke & Pure Imagination im zweiten Go (beide 5.14c)

Moritz Welt (DE) klettert Victimes del Passat (8c+) in Margalef (ES)

Jorge Diaz-Rullo klettert Following the Leader (9a+/9b) in Cuenca (ES)

Flash: Paul Robinson (US) klettert Turbulence (V12) in Leavenworth (US)

Carlo Traversi (US) klettert Botchla (V14) in Kirkwood Lake, CA (US)

Happy Helloween

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