Mirit 'Mile' Heyden klettert 'New Base Line' (Fb 8B+)

Foto: Matti Staniek Mile klettert New Base Line 8b+ Magic Wood
Manchmal lohnt sich Dranbleiben... Mirit 'Mile' Heyden ist an 'New Base Line' drangeblieben. Und weitere hart Züge der letzten Wochen.

Mirit Heyden (DE) klettert 'New Base Line' (Fb 8B+) im Magic Wood (CH)


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Falling 3 times at the final jug of this incredibly breathtaking line was one of the most frustrating thing I've ever experienced in bouldering but persistence paid off After the failing disaster I was tired of the line and we decided to take a rest day although the wheather was getting worser. After a rainy night motivation was low. We were super surprised that New Base Line was one of the only dry lines in the woods. Friction was perfect, motivation high again and at last I was able to hold the jug! Topping it out with some wet holds was a combination of felicity and heart attack! This line is really one of the most beautiful lines and I'm just super happy, thankful and satisfied to finish this one! @matti_staniek #newbaseline #magicwood #mostamazingline #bouldering #girlsboulder #girlspower #bouldering_pictures_of_instagram #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #bouldering_is_my_passion #boulderinglife #climbing #bouldern #bouldernmachtglücklich #klettern #redchiliclimbing #wataaah

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Mile Heyden (@miritheyden) am



Luis Gerhardt (DE) klettert 'Tendinite' (8c) in der Tarnschlucht (FR)




Nalle Hukkataival (FI) klettert 'Hazel Grace' (Fb 8C) am Gotthard Pass (CH)




Brette Harrington (CA) & Gabe Hayden klettern 'Shaa Téix’i' (5.11a, 1300m) am Devils Paw, Alaska (US)


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Devils Paw, Alaska. ..................................................................... I have been dreaming of this mountain for a long time— Imagining all of its changing conditions: snow, rock, fog, sun, frost, Imagining if the features would link up or if it would be protectable. Last week Gabe Hayden and I had the great fortune in getting a stable enough weather window to climb it via our first ascent of the West Face. Shaa Téix’i 1300m, 11a. (Heart of the mountain) We arrived at the summit at 6:30pm after climbing for 12 hours, then embarked on rappelling the face in some 20+ rappels. With a quick shiver bivy on a ledge at 3 am, we awoke with fresh minds and pressed on, landing at the base at 9:30 am the following day. @arcteryx #devilspaw @canadianalpinetools @lasportivana @julboeyewearna #alpineclimbing #alaska @mdre92 @akicebum

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Brette Harrington (@bretteharrington) am



Erstbegehung: Seb Bouin (FR) klettert 'La côte d'usure' (9a+), Verdon (FR)


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I'd really like to thank you all for your kind words, ideas and comments. I'll bear in mind all the solutions that can help me to progress. Unfortunately, for this month, it's a bit too late to organise a trip to Norway. It doesn't really matter for now, my project over there doesn't run away. The hard weeks of training, were not lost, they paid off for the projects at home. Yesterday I did the first ascent of my huge 60m prow in the middle of the Gorges du Verdon at La Ramirole. This route means a lot to me, even though my main goal was my project in Norway. I bolted this route 9 years ago, when i was 16 years old. It's by far the most beautiful route I have ever bolted, and climbed. I'm really happy with the First Ascent of "la côte d'usure". I suggest 9a+ / 5.15a for the grade, this means that it's becoming the hardest route at La Ramirole. Video is coming soon ! Amazing pic by @tilbyvattard Je voudrais vous dire merci beaucoup pour vos mots, vos idées et vos commentaires. Je prend note de toutes ces solutions qui peuvent m'aider à avancer. Malheureusement pour ce mois de Septembre, il est trop tard pour organiser un voyage en Norvège. Ce n'est pas grave, et c'est effectivement partie remise. Je profite dès à présent de mes dures semaines d'entrainement pour réaliser les projets proches de chez moi. A ce titre j'ai réaliser hier mon immense proue de 60 mètres dans les Gorges du Verdon à la Ramirole. Cette voie compte beaucoup pour moi (même si il est vrai que je l'aurais bien essayé après la Norvège ;)). En effet, je l'ai équipé à 16ans, soit il y a 9 ans. C'est de loin la plus belle voie que je n'ai jamais équipé ou réalisé. Je suis content de faire donc la First Ascent de "la côte d'usure". Au niveau de la cotation je penche pour un 9a+. Cette voie devient donc la voie la plus dure de la Ramirole. La vidéo arrive bientôt ! Super photo de @tilbyvattard Thank you to support me in these projects @blackdiamond @eb_climbing @mytendon @natureclimbing @climbskinspain @matahijuice

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Seb Bouin (@sebbouin) am



Katherine Choong (CH) klettert 'Nordic Plumber' (8c) in Flatanger (NO)




Stefan Vogt (DE) klettert 'Raubritter' (8c) im Frankenjura (DE)




Erstbegehung: Jimmy Webb (US) klettert ‘The Lost Eagle’ (V13) in Wyoming (US)




Piotr Schab (PO) klettert 'Gancho Perfecto' (9a+) in Margalef (ES)




Stefano Carnati (IT) klettert 'Biographie/Realization' (9a+) in Céüse (FR)


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I still remember with glee the first days my parents took me to Céüse. Being a little child, the hike to this limestone band was the hardest climb I was able to accomplish. Once there, I noticed some piles of stones, which appeared very tall and I was told they were at the base of a famous route, one of the hardest in the world. It looked somehow special to me and I remember touching the first crimps to realise why it was said to be so hard (yes, since then I’d contributed to polish the holds). Later on, my father showed me Dosage, with the video of Chris freeing it, and I was more than impressed, despite climbing didn’t seem to engage me at all at the time. But things change and years later I took up climbing... and I started dreaming! Little by little I got in touch with the history of rock climbing, I better understood the value of some routes and I put down my own life wishlist: among the routes at the top there was this! But well... the way of all these years to get ready to face such a challenge was long! To make a seven-year story short, a couple of years ago I found myself hanging on the draws of this blue streak, checking it out for my first time! I fell in love! So last year I spent some time working on it, but without success. Back on it in May, feelings were different. And finally last friday, with a strong wind blowing, I felt physically good, light and relaxed, despite knowing it was one of the very last chances that Sendtember would give me. Once I left the ground everything went smoothly and the moment I reached the big hole at the end was magical. With different emotions coming in my mind, I tried to hold myself together and enjoy the last metres till the chain Thanks to all the people who believed in me during the whole process, my family, my trainer Tito @skillsrls , @ragnidilecco , my friends @lukecayman , @_filu98 , @fede9327 and @andre_zedd , @marcozanone for the send belay and and my sponsors! Last but not least, I show all my appreciation to Lafaille for bolting this line back in the days and Chris Sharma for establishing this masterpiece! @camp1889 @dfsportspecialist @lasportivagram @adidasita @adidasterrex

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Stefano Carnati (@teto_carnati) am



Mari Salvesen (NO) klettert 'Master's Edge' (E7 6c) im Peak (GB)




Sascha Lehmann (CH) klettert 'El Molinero' (8c+) in Gimmelwald (CH)




Erstbegehung: Adam Ondra (CZ) klettert 'Interklemmezzo' (9a) in Bosnien




Nina Caprez (CH) klettert 'Headless Children' (8b, 250m) im Rätikon (CH)




Daniel Woods (US) klettert 'Cosmic Artifact' (Fb 8B+)




Michiel Nieuwenhuijsen (NL) klettert 'Louis Armstrong' (Fb 8B) in Parisella's Cave, Wales (GB)




Erstbegehung: Daniel Woods (US) klettert 'The Process' (Fb 8C) in Bishop, CA (US)




Paige Claassen (US) klettert 'Algorithm' (5.14d) in den Fins, Idaho (US)


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Yesterday was a big surprise - made the second ascent of Algorithm, my goal for September! Fueled by $4 Pocatello food truck burritos, I spent 6 days whittling down the intricate footwork of Alogrithm, in addition to 2 days in May. What a rad line. Shallow pockets, delicate feet, and a few big spans add up to 40 meters of thought provoking climbing. Luckily I had @arjandekock and my friends cheering me on, as I very nearly fumbled the top "coral reef". But @tarakerzhner (whose photo you might rather look at than read this lengthy caption) told me to be a tropical fish, so I took her advice and swam to the chains. Luckily this was more of a dry ocean, as I'm relatively afraid of water. I think I was just as tired mentally as physically when I reached the chains - my absolute favorite style of climbing. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Thanks for the vision @jonathansiegrist, such an incredible line up a very blank wall. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ @tarakerzhner

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Paige Claassen (@paigeclaassen) am



Niky Ceria (IT) klettert 'The lonely Crowd' (Fb 8B+) in Victoria (AU)


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Stoked to have climbed the second ascent (from the original start) of @nalle_hukkataival "The Lonely Crowd"! This awesome line is very hidden in the Victoria Range and it was not very easy to attempt. First of all, it is always in the sun and it owns some really sharp edges. Secondly, you need a 4wd car to reach the area and only few people know exactly where to go. Back in 2015, during my first trip, I had no chance to check it out. One year later, a good friend of mine drove me there and he showed me the line. It was a dry day, but we didn't attempt it since we were very keen on another gem located in the same area. I thought to come back at some point, but once again the logistic seemed to be hard to handle. 2018. We drove there once again. At the top of the beautiful wave feature, there is a little hole with a little bush inside. After the rain all the water drops down from this little hole and the boulder stays wet for 1/2 days. I managed to plan another day with a 4wd car few days later. The sun was shining and we left full of great expectations. Hard to belive, but from that morning on the road would have been closed! This meant we couldn't reach the boulder anymore during this trip. Postponed once again! Walking from the gate to the boulder was the only thing left to try. This would have meant 6km of serious up-hill hike with pads and gear; plus the risk to find it soaked under a waterfall or roasted under a warm sun. The walk finally took me 1 hour and 40 but luckly it was a very windy day so the conditions turned to be prime despite the sun! After few attempts I managed to do all the moves in the overhanging part and then I practised the wave section top-rope. After a long rest I started to try it seriously from the bottom and I knew I didn't have a lot of goes because of the sharp holds. On the last go with decent skin I managed to stick the crux move and surfing the wave until the summit! Glad to finally complete something that good after many years of dreaming! @adidasterrex @frictionlabs @flathold

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Niccolò Ceria (@niky_ceria) am



Erstbegehung: Federica Mingolla (IT) und Gabriele Carrara klettern 'L' Isola che non c'é' an der Ostseite der Aiguille Croux am Montblanc-Massiv




David Mason (GB) klettert 'Mortal Immortal (8B+), Peak District (GB)




Reminder: No Beta Spitting!




25.09.2018
Autor: Sarah Burmester
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