Highlights: Robinson, Webb, Karalus, Schubert

Foto: Archiv Karalus Doro Karalus klettert Dark Age V11
Wer hat was geklettert? Die Highlights der letzten Wochen im Überblick. Dabei: Paul Robinson, Jimmy Webb, Dorothea Karalus, Jakob Schubert und mehr!

Der österreichische Spitzenkletterer Jakob Schubert hat es wieder getan: Er kletterte eine Linie von Chris Sharma und wertete sie danach kurzerhand ab. So hatte er es mit Catalan Witness the Fitness gemacht, diesmal traf es El bon Combat, ursprünglich mit 9b/9b+ bewertet. Jakob denkt, die Route sei "hart 9a+". Weitere Wiederholungen werden zeigen, ob und wo sich der Grad einpendeln wird.

Ebenfalls stark zeigen sich die Boulderer: Derzeit scheint sich die Weltspitze im texanischen Bouldergebiet Hueco Tanks die Griffe in die Hand zu geben. Paul Robinson konnte dort Karoshi erstbegehen, für das er V15, also 8C veranschlagt. Die starke Deutsche Dorothea Karalus hat in Hueco Dark Age (V11) klettern können – von dem sie beim letzten Versuch beim Ausstieg gefallen war und sich verletzt hatte.

Die Freundin von Jan Hojer, Molly Thompson Smith, hatte sich letzten Winter mehrere Ringbänder gerissen und scheint nun wieder in Form zu sein: Sie kletterte im katalonischen Santa Linya Fabelita (8c) und in Oliana Rollito Sharma Extension.

Der Italiener Stefano Ghisolfi konnte die von Alex Megos eröffnete Perfecto Mundo (9b+) in Margalef wiederholen, und dem Schweizer Giuliano Cameroni gelang eine Highend-Erstbegehung mit King Roger (Fb 8B). Doch es gab noch weitere Highlights in den ersten Dezember-Wochen – seht selbst.

Jakob Schubert klettert 'El bon Combat' (9b) in Cova de Ocell, Katalonien (ES)




Dorothea Karalus (DE) klettert 'Dark Age' (V11) in Hueco Tanks (US)




Erstbegehung: Giuliano Cameroni (CH) klettert 'King Roger' (Fb 8B)




Stefano Ghisolfi (IT) klettert 'Perfecto Mundo' (9b+)


Sieh dir diesen Beitrag auf Instagram an

PERFECTO MUNDO 9B+ ️ MISSION COMPLETED !!! • • • After so many days trying this route, I can't believe it actually happened, I just climbed the hardest route I've ever tried. I spent 32 days here at the crag, falling many times at the same move, but this time I grabbed for the first time that pinch and it felt unreal, and I didn't any mistakes and went to the top with a perfect flow. I can finally join the 9b+ club of @adam.ondra @chris_sharma and @alexandermegos , without them it wouldn't be possible to push this limit further to this level. Thanks Chris for bolting this beautiful ( and hard) route, thanks Alex for climbing this route for the first time and made me realize it was possible, And obviously thanks to @sara_grip , the best supporter ever, in every conditions she was here with me. @javipec • • • @thenorthface @lasportivagram @camp1889 @vertical.life.climbing @epictv @hrtholds @frictionlabs #neverstopexploring #fiammeoro • #climb #climbing #steghisati #rockclimbing #klettern #escalade #bouldering #climbing_pictures_of_instagram

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Stefano Ghisolfi (@steghiso) am



Ben Spannuth (US) klettert 'Bone Tomahawk' (5.14d) in Utah (US)




Matty Hong (US) klettert 'Bone Tomahawk' (5.14d) in Utah (US)




Michaela Kiersch (US) klettert 'Phantom Limb', 'Tequila Sunrise' & 'Rumble in the Jungle' (alle V12) in Hueco Tanks (US)




Alex Megos (DE) klettert 'Alma Blanca' (V13) in Hueco Tanks (US)




Alex Megos (DE) klettert 'Esperanza' (V14) in Hueco Tanks, USA




Isabelle Faus (US) klettert 'Terre de Sienne' (V13) in Hueco Tanks (US)




Erstbegehung: Niky Ceria klettert 'The Education State' (?)


Sieh dir diesen Beitrag auf Instagram an

Mission accomplished! First ascent of "The Education State"! Almost 3 years ago my good friend @marco__giorgio showed me this incredible orange project After 4 days of efforts I got quite close to complete it, but then the heat came! Few months after that day I started a long and never ending period of injuries which still keeps going. I came back last March, but I was out of the game to attempt this sequence so I spent my time doing other climbs. My medium finger was not strong enough for those small edges and I was re-starting climbing since only a couple of months. Things have improved during the last year and month after month I am getting into the bouldering mode again. When I planned to come back on this project I felt I was probably not ready enough. Fortunately I was wrong. The other day I finally managed to link it all the way from the bottom and to achieve one of the most interesting projects I found in the last years. I don't know how many times I have visualized this sequence in my mind. I guess my mind has climbed this problem over a million of times. I have been thinking about this project every day since February 2016 and, in some days, most of my thoughts was just about this! This mental aspect was very helpful: my mind perfectly remembered beta, body positions and angles after the last time back in 2016! @adidasterrex @fiveten_official @frictionlabs @flathold #bouldering #rockclimbing #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #climbing_is_my_passion #climber #boulder #climb #climbing #outdoors #adidasterrex

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Niccolò Ceria (@niky_ceria) am



Keenan Takahashi (US) klettert 'Kintsugi' (V15) in Red Rocks, Nevada (US)




Guillaume Glairon Mondet flasht 'Beyond life sit' (V12) in Joe's Valley (US)




Molly Thompson-Smith (GB) klettert 'Fabelita' in Santa Linya und Rollito Sharma Extension (beide 8c) in Oliana (ES)




Erstbegehung: Paul Robinson (US) klettert 'Karoshi' (V15) in Hueco Tanks (US)


Sieh dir diesen Beitrag auf Instagram an

Very very happy to have made the first ascent of, “Karoshi,” in Hueco Tanks! @westmountainmedia and I discovered this line last year when we went over to the newly opened, @fred_nicole “New Map of Hell.” I spied a set of holds that looked to climb straight out the steep overhang. Obvious start and a set of some gnarly sharp crimps to the finish. The line eluded me that season but upon some extra training this year, I can back this year motivated and psyched to try again! I re-learned all of the moves and started to dial it all in and eventually found myself on top of this very hard line for me. Always a great feeling to accomplish something that feels so tough. As for the grade, I am going to suggest V15/8C. It is always very hard to judge with a first ascent, but I am eager to hear what more people have to say about the line as it gets more traffic in the future. Video coming to the YouTube channel in the coming weeks #bouldering big thanks to everyone that supported me on this journey @punkaca @westmountainmedia @mike_vice @frank__decaro @esimplesimon88 @gleather_hueco.tanks

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Paul Robinson (@paulrobinson87) am



Erstbegehung: Edu Marin (ES) klettert 'Valhalla' (9a+, 14SL) in China


Sieh dir diesen Beitrag auf Instagram an

Alex y yo no sabíamos si era posible abrir una linea por el medio de aquel techo con el fin de escalarlo en libre, todo eran incógnitas y solo existía un modo de averiguarlo... ⠀ ⠀ Este es el resultado de meses de duro trabajo, equipando, escalando y sobre todo tratando de encontrar la línea mas lógica, bonita y natural. ⠀ Ahora Valhalla ya es una realidad y estoy inmerso en otro proceso, el intento de liberación con el mejor equipo: @alexmarinclimb & @novatomarinrueda ⠀ Concepto: @wearequericomambo ⠀ ⠀ ——————————————————— ⠀ We, Alex and I, didn't know whether or not setting up a line through this roof to free climbing it afterwards was possible. Everything was unknown and there was only a way to find out... ⠀ This is the result of months of hard work, setting up the line, climbing and trying to find to design the most logical, beautiful and natural line. ⠀ Now, Valhalla is a reality and I'm totally in on the process of free climbing it with the best team: @alexmarinclimb & @novatomarinrueda ⠀ Concept: @wearequericomambo ⠀ Thanks to: ⠀ @petzl_official @borealoutdoor @climbatcenters @entreprisesclimbing @goproes @kuikmeal @ttrinternational

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Edu Marin (@edumarin1) am



Jerome Pouvreau (FR) klettert 'Supercrackinette' (9a+) in Saint-Léger-du-Ventoux (FR)




Dave Graham (US) klettert 'Wanderlust' (Fb 8B) in Colorado (US)




Jimmy Webb (US) klettert 'Squoze' (V14)




Babsi Zangerl (AT) klettert 'Atonement (5.14b), Jacopo Larcher (IT) klettert 'Necessary Evil' (5.14c) in Virgin River Gorge (US)


Sieh dir diesen Beitrag auf Instagram an

Our US trip comes to a close end and it turned out to be a bit different than expected. Regardless to the early snow in Yosemite we had tons of fun spending time cragging in the desert. VRG was awesome. Hanging out with friends and climbing a lot of cool routes. Simple but GOLD!! •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• On the picture “Atonement 5.14b/8c”; super happy to have sent that one pretty fast within 5 tries. But definitely the best day was yesterday —>>when Jacopo climbed “Necessary evil 5.14c/8c+”. Now we are pretty psyched for some backcountry skiing back home.... ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Thanks to @wasatchandy for the picture and to the rest of the overstoker @blackdiamond crew (@katydberg and @tylerwillcutt for hanging out with us.) @lasportivagram @verivalbio @frictionlabs @fazabrushes

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Babsi Zangerl (@babsizangerl) am



Erstbegehung: Alexander Huber (DE) klettert 'Mauerläufer' (8b+, 6SL) an der Steinplatte




Erstbegehung: Pol Roca (ES) klettert 'Boulder Blaster' (Fb 8C) in Katalonien (ES)




Erstbegehung: Thomas Dauser (DE) klettert 'Il Gusto della Liberta' (9a) auf Sardinien (IT)


Sieh dir diesen Beitrag auf Instagram an

Yeees, yesterday I made the First Ascent of "Il gusto della liberta" (9a) in Ulassai, Sardinia. by @klaas_willems . . It was a long way to the top of this dream line. Actually, I've been dreaming of climbing it over a year. In total, split over two stays, I spent around 10 days working on it, checking out the moves, making link-ups, and finally sending it in perfect evening conditions. . . Thanks to @nannai_climbing_home for bolting the line and the hospitality here in Ulassai at the Climbing Home. . . As for the grade, I would suggest 9a (more at the lower end). I think it suits my style of climbing very well. One can roughly separate the 25 meter line in two major parts: An 8b+ into an 8c, with a not-so-good rest in between. . . @dmm_wales @scarpa_de #climbnoworklater #firstascent

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Thomas Dauser (@thdauser) am



Erstbegehung: Stefano Carnati (IT) klettert ''Vortex' (8c+) in Gajum (IT)


Sieh dir diesen Beitrag auf Instagram an

One of the things that give me super motivation is definitely seeing progress over the years! “Vortex” has been one of those routes where I could feel this kind of progess! Located in Gajum, one of my home crags, it used to be one of the last unclimbed projects, bolted by Stefano Alippi and @lucapassini . I worked on it some days in the past four years and for this winter I wanted to try it more seriourly and hopefully to finish it off! Well... it took me far less time than expected! Yesterday, first day back on it this year, after checking the moves once again I found myself clipping the chain! Low gravity days exist!! The grade proposed is 8c+, but I might be wrong... time will tell... Really psyched to be off to Spain soon! Vamoss !!! by my father, belayer @pippo_nolasco @camp1889 @dfsportspecialist @lasportivagram @ragnidilecco @skill_climbing

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Stefano Carnati (@teto_carnati) am



Stefano Carnati (IT) klettert 'La ley Innata' (8c+) in Margalef (ES)




... und 'A Muerte' (9a) in Siurana, Katalonien (ES)




Annaliina Laitinen (FI) klettert 'Lucifer' (5.14c) in der Red River Gorge (US)


Sieh dir diesen Beitrag auf Instagram an

When things goes better than you planned!!! I went to the Red River Gorge with a goal to get my lost fitness back and climb on stuff which wouldn’t hurt my wrist. I was excited just about doing some old and new easy stuff, but on one day, I went to Purgatory to see my old nemesis which gave me a finger injury on my previous trip and broke my heart by giving me a whip from the chains . I suprised myself by almost sending it on my first red pointing day on this trip, then finally after some setbacks, took it down . Climbing something hard wasn’t main goal on this trip so I was just happy to be able to climb again so trying something hard and climb on my limits was just a huge bonus. Not to mention sending ”Lucifer, 5.14c” which I didn’t expect to do. Thanks guys for some super fun climbing days with slab challenges, climbing till late with headlamps and sharing that bittersweet suffer on a heinous cold! You know who you are Picture by amazing @andywickstrom @mountainhardwear @blackdiamond @blackdiamond_climb @kaslinkkoria @kiipeilyareena @lasportivagram

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Anna Liina Laitinen (@annaliinalaitinen) am



Erstbegehung: Nathaniel Coleman (US) klettert 'Lee Majors' (5.14c/d) in Celebrity Cave, Arizona (US)


Sieh dir diesen Beitrag auf Instagram an

Lee Majors, 5.14+ ( @neilson.ben) The route breaks down into two or three sections: the intro snaps you into gear with a tensiony V10 followed by two hero jumps and a kneebar sequence to exit the roof. After an almost no hands kneebar, the route follows the lip of the cave with quite a few foot tricks; toe hook, heel hook, heel toe cam, la mae (is that how you spell it?), this sequence has it all. This takes you straight into the final boulder. I couldn't dream of a better sequence to guard the chains. A big left hand throw over a mini roof opens your body fully to the left with your feet carrying on behind you. Swinging your feet back on takes precision, and engaging a right drop knee takes some serious hamstring, but it's necessary in order to match the left hand. Loaded like a spring, launch for the clipping jug, and clip off the one hand deadhang (key beta). This final boulder probably clocks in at V9. It can be tough to grade a route, especially when you're a boulderer, and the route is kinda perfectly your style, and harder than anything else you've ever tried. In the end I was able to outrun the pump, and the 60 feet of climbing felt similar to executing a boulder problem. My understanding of route grades versus my own ability isn't good enough to grade this beauty. That being said, if you are planning to test yourself against this magnificent cave, be ready for some 5.14c or d effort. @prAna @petzl_official @fiveten_official @frictionlabs @gnarlynutrition

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Nathaniel Coleman (@nathaniel.coleman) am



Erstbegehung: Ines Papert (DE) & Luka Lindic (SI) klettern 'Sharks of Königssee' (8a, 280m) am Hohen Göll




Matilda Söderlund (SE) klettert 'Pure Imagination' (5.14c) in der Red River Gorge (US)




Erstbegehung: Dai Kojamada (JP) klettert Projekt (V13/14) in Ena (JP)




Dai Koyamada (JP): casual training


Sieh dir diesen Beitrag auf Instagram an

Back to my home gym.

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Dai Koyamada (@dai_koyamada) am



18.12.2018
Autor: Sarah Burmester
© klettern