Highlights: Philipp Gassner, Margo Hayes, David Firnenburg

Foto: Archiv Dauser Thomas Dauser klettert Intercooler 8c im Frankenjura
Die härtesten Züge der letzten Wochen: Philipp Gassner, Margo Hayes, Adam Ondra, Christof Rauch, David Firnenburg und viele mehr.

Philipp Gassner (DE) klettert 'The Vice' (Fb 8B) in Rocklands (ZA)




... und 'Working Class' (11) im Frankenjura (DE)




Thomas Dauser (DE) klettert 'Intercooler' (11-) im Frankenjura (DE)




Said Belhaj (SE) klettert 'Action Directe' (11) im Frankenjura (DE)


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Back in the early 90s there were very few sources of inspiration so I bought everything that was climbing related. In -92 I got a poster with a climber that said "Wolfgang Güllich, Action Directe" and hung it above my bed. I had no clue who he was or what AD meant... Now, a few (!) years later the story came full circle: I managed to climb the route and also meet the legendary photographer who took the photo on the poster of Wolfgang: Thomas Ballenberger. I didnt think I would do AD this season but after a 5 day break climbing in Margalef, I came back, the temps had dropped to 8 degrees. I somehow managed to send that day but my fingers payed the price...and of course it was worth it! Special thanks to @ujk_schnitzel for patient belays + support @raydemski for the photos. Stay tuned for an in-depth movie about the story of Wolfgang, AD, the Campus board with me + many others by @hanneshuch / @cafekraft_nuernberg who also took this portrait of @ballisbrain and me* @petzl_official #petzlteam #petzl @lasportivagram #c2verticalsafety @patagoniaeurope @patagonia_climb @thule @clifbar @lyofood @njiesverige @kaskofsweden @verve_climbing #verveclimbing @hilleberg_the_tentmaker @metabo_power_tools @climbskinspain @problemsolver_hangboards #fränkischeschweiz #actiondirecte #climbing_photos_of_instagram #climbing_pictures_of_instagram

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Said Belhaj (@said_belhaj) am



Carlo Traversi (US) klettert 'Meltdown' (5.14c) im Yosemite (US)


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Meltdown. What a ride. First tried this beautiful line in 2013 and got completely shut down. Couldn’t figure out how to stand on the absolutely miserable footholds. The next year I tried again and solved the crux, a desperate lie back section on gently overhanging granite while smearing on glass. I thought everything would come together quickly after that but I was wrong. It’s one thing to climb through a difficult section, it’s another to be relaxed enough while you’re doing it to not burn yourself out for the rest of the route. I top roped it clean at the end of 2015, got desperately close on lead, and then proceeded to go to war with the weather through 2016 and 2017. This season it all came together. A dry Fall and this week the colder temps are just sweeping into the Valley. Yesterday I was able to climb it on my 3rd try of the day after a couple weird slips after the crux on the first two tries. All gear was placed on lead, after the first piece was placed I climbed back down to the ground to re-chalk and re-compose. The climbing went smoothly including the placement of the final #4 @blackdiamond Stopper which is always a tricky one to get in. A massive thanks to @marymeck for all the days supporting me in the Valley through some of the coldest times. And my brother @gtraversi for standing in knee deep ice water in underwear in freezing temps to belay when the pool at the base of the route filled up. Last but not least a huge thanks to @bethrodden for the vision, tenacity, and incredible climbing ability that brought this route to life over 10 years ago. The First Ascent of this route is a benchmark in the history of climbing and is one of the most impressive achievements I can think of in the last few decades. Respect. Photo by @bearcam. @blackdiamond @blackdiamond_climb @fiveten_official @frictionlabs @theboulderfield

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Carlo Traversi (@carlodenali) am



David Firnenburg (DE) wiederholt 'L’isola che non c’è' (9a) in Amden (CH)


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“L’isola che non c’è” • Wow, the mystery is revealed Today David finally repeated this milestone opened by Swiss legend @fred_nicole after almost 10 years without any repetition (FA March 14th 2009) • We are not lying if we call this line the “Action Directe” of Switzerland It sits at a mystical place, opened by a climbing legend, is high-end climbing and didn’t see any repeat after almost a decade • David invested a lot of work into it. Starting to try it without success in 2016, coming back for a couple of days in 2017, again without a happy end, and now finally sending it this season after another 3 days of trying his best. Maybe in total 8 days of work and over 15 tries (we didn’t count). It’s a huge feeling of relief and inner peace standing in front of this line finally finished and thinking back to a great process of contest with a piece of rock • Fred didn’t give it a grade, just said it lies somewhere around the 9th french grade. David proposes 9a for a powerful Fb 8A boulder (so called “Cavernicole”) at the start, a Fb 7th graded traverse into a horizontal rest on a mini jug with heel-toe cam followed by a long and powerful Fb 8A+ boulder with spectacular swing and feet forward sequence at the very end. You sit start on crash pads and finish with a rope approx. 10 meters above the ground. But hey to all strong climbers out there! Why not coming to Amden to give this masterpiece a try? • Thank you for the invaluable support and backing my beloved brother Ruben and @andrea_kuemin • @larsscharlphoto • #makemovesnowar @sporthilfe @frictionlabs @neprosport @haglofs @scarpa_de @scarpaspa @escaladrome_hannover #davsektionrheinlandköln • #theislanddoesnotexist #neverland #amden #firnenburgbrothers #firnenburg #climbing #klettern #freeclimbing #switzerland #thechapterisclosed #climbingpicturesofinstagram #chalkupless #climbmore #frictionlabs #beattheelements #noplacetoofar

Ein Beitrag geteilt von David & Ruben Firnenburg (@firnenburgbrothers) am



... und 'Classified' (9a/+) im Frankenjura (DE)


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„Classified“ (9a/9a+) • After winning lead nationals on Saturday we drove to Frankenjura on Sunday for rock climbing • On that day David fell while swinging out of the wall with his feet on the actual last saving hold before the top. Sooo close. • Today he tied in the rope and executed his 12th 9a and harder in the first try of today. That‘s a motivation boost for the upcoming projects • Let’s keep the ball rolling ️ This week we head to Switzerland for some more rock climbingHoping for good weather • @neprosport Some drone footage to come... • @sporthilfe @frictionlabs @haglofs @scarpa_de @escaladrome_hannover @scarpaspa #davsektionrheinlandköln • #makemovesnowar #weareclassified #firnenburgbrothers #klettern #frankenjura #fränkischeschweiz #climbing #freeclimbing #letthegamesbegin #climbingpicturesofinstagram #keepclimbing #chalkmatters #noplacetoofar #beattheelements

Ein Beitrag geteilt von David & Ruben Firnenburg (@firnenburgbrothers) am



Jonathan Siegrist (US) klettert 'Spicy Dumpling' (9a) in Yangshuo (CN)




Margo Hayes (US) klettert 'Joe Blau' (8c+) in Oliana (ES)




Pete Whittaker (GB) klettert El Cap & Half Dome (US) in 20 Std solo


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Cheeky little mission the other day. I managed to solo both Half Dome and El Cap in under 24hrs. Pretty pleased as I'd only done The Nose twice, Half Dome once and not soloed either route before, so the solo logistics felt kind of 'onsight'. There were definitely a few rope tangles and glitches to sort through, especially when I got lost on the first part of Half Dome (but that's standard behaviour really). Obviously apart from @alexhonnold doing the Triple, maybe this is the first time this has been done since Dean Potter and @hansflorine ? Who knows! What I do know is that is was a bloody good day out! From the bottom of the first wall to the top of the second was 20hrs 19mins. . @patagonia_climb @fiveten_official @wildcountry_official @sterlingrope @hard.bar

Ein Beitrag geteilt von PETE WHITTAKER (@petewhittaker01) am



Adam Ondra (CZ) klettert 'Assassin' (5.14d) in Smith Rock (US)




Samuel Ometz (CH) klettert 'Saruman' du bas (Fb 8B) in Fontainebleau (FR)




Christoph Rauch (AT) klettert 'Chef Charles' (Fb 8B) und 'The Arkenstone' (Fb 8A+) im Magic Wood (CH)


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Since I saw the photos of @barnakerenyi 's new line "The Arkenstone" (8A+) I got syked to check it. After a bit of working out the beta I was able to make the second ascent of this beauty. On the second day I was able to make a repeat of "Chef Charles" (~8B). Another fresh line opened by @barefoot_charles a few days before. It`s a really unique climb with some tricky and balancy moves on the right side of "The Arkenstone". Thanks to Harald Röker for the photo. . . . @scarpaspa @moonclimbing @frictionlabs #frictionlabs #chalkupless #climbmore #Swiss #Schweiz #Graubünden #Magicwood #Zillertal #klettern #autumn #weekend #Switzerland #climbing #mountains #boulder #scarpaspa #scarpaclimb #scarpa #moonclimbing #iloooveit #doyouboulder #climbing_lovers #escalade #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #climbing_worldwide #climbing_is_my_passion #climbinginspiration #climax_magazine

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Christof Rauch (@christof_rauch) am



... und 'Dust Devil' (Fb 8B+) im Saalachtal (AT)


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The good conditions are finally back here in Austria. Last weekend I went to the Saalachtal to try Bernhard Schwaigers "Dust Devil", originally graded 8C. I felt quite strong and with some pretty good conditions I nabbed the second ascent of this great line. For the grade, I think 8B+ fits better. Thanks to @floschmalzl for the photo. . . . @scarpaspa @moonclimbing @frictionlabs #frictionlabs #chalkupless #climbmore #Austria #Österreich #Tirol #Zillertal #weekend #klettern #Salzburg #Saalachtal #autumn #climbing #mountains #boulder #scarpaspa #scarpaclimb #scarpa #moonclimbing #iloooveit #doyouboulder #climbing_lovers #escalade #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #climbing_worldwide #climbing_is_my_passion #climbinginspiration #climax_magazine

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Christof Rauch (@christof_rauch) am



Emma Twyford (GB) klettert 'Impact Day' (E8/9 6c) in Pavey Ark (GB)




Cedric Lachat (CH) klettert 'Alpenbitter' (9a) in Gimmelwald (CH)




Martin Keller (CH) klettert 'Wovenhand' (Fb 8B) in Magic Wood (CH)


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and after falling another 4times high up on #newbaseline i was lucky enough to have some power left in the tank; „wovenhand, 8B“ - such a fun boulder . . checked the lower moves off „ill thrill“ after the send and it felt good - should be a matter off a few tries with the newly gained #fitness - but there is always room for some #drama when i try something harder... be prepared ... . . . . . #climbing #bouldering #swizzy #avers #magicwood #switzerland #40isthenew30 #train #trainhard #trainharder #fit #fitness #strong #stronger #doyouboulder #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #nevergiveup #gotheextramile #moonclimbing #kletterzentrum_gaswerk_ag #frictionlabs #fazabrushes

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Martin Keller (@swizzybouldering) am



Danny Parker klettert 'Century Crack' (5.14b) in Moab, Utah (US)


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My first offwidth experience happened simultaneously with the Wideboyz free ascent of Century Crack. Their story spoke to me, and although I had just projected a 40’ 5.9, the dream of climbing Century Crack was alive. Though these years I’ve been slowly chipping away at their tick list, making minuscule improvements, building a crack room in my garage, and maybe completing a zillion sit ups. This Wednesday I lived the dream, and climbed Century Crack. I feel battered and overwhelmed with happiness, and am filled with gratitude for Tom and Pete. They not only inspired me, but they came full circle and gave me the training plan they used for Century (turns out it’s effective). I’m so grateful for my wife Ashley, who supported and encouraged me through this process. Alright, time to eat pizza:) Photo 1 by Jon Vickers @jonvickersclimbs working a pinkpoint a couple weeks ago. Video 2 and 3 taken by @ashleyreva . #offwidtharmy #8bplus #blackdiamondequipment #butora #butorausa

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Danny Parker (@cheyeah) am



Seb Bouin (FR) klettert 'La Cabane au Canada' (9a) in Rawyl


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After spending 3 days in the mythique Buoux in France for my "vintage rock tour", I came to the nice and beautiful crag of "Rawyl" in Switzerland (Valais). What a place! We were Lucky enough to climb with the sun during 4 days. I sent "La cabane au Canada" supposed 9a - 5.14d in my third go. I fell on the last move in the second go because of a foot mistake.. The plan was to try it flash, but I didn't find someone able to flash the moves. Anyway it's an amazing route, an amazing crag, and an amazing place. No public comment about the grade of this route !! I also did the mega classic "le voile de Maya" 8c - 5.14b in my second go. I try it onsight but I felt with a wrong beta in the crimpy crux. Next time ;) I also try "hyper finale" 9a+ - 5.15a and "Super finale" 9a, but I need more days and better conditions to do these ones. Pic of me trying "Super finale" 9a. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Après avoir passé 3 journées dans la mythique falaise de Buoux pour mon "Vintage rock Tour", je suis monté faire un tour en Suisse, à la falaise du Rawyl (Valais). Nous avons été assez chanceux pour avoir 4 journées d'escalade ensoleillées. J'ai enchainé "La cabane au Canada" supposé 9a au deuxième essai. Je suis tombé au premier essai au dernier mouvement de la voie à cause d'une erreur de pied. Le plan été d'essayer cette voie flash, mais je n'ai trouver personne pour m'expliquer les méthodes. C'était un super moment dans une super voie, une super falaise et un super lieux! What else? A propos de la difficulté de la voie, pas de commentaire publique! J'ai aussi réalisé la méga classique "Le voile de Maya" 8c au premier essai. J'ai essayé à vue mais je suis tombé au crux sur réglettes :D! J'ai aussi essayé "hyper finale" 9a+ et "super finale" 9a, mais j'ai besoin de plus de jours et de meilleures conditions pour enchainer ces voies là. Photo prise durant le travail de "Super finale" 9a. Thank's to support me in these projects @blackdiamond @eb_climbing @mytendon @matahijuice @climbskinspain @Crosscall @natureclimbing

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Seb Bouin (@sebbouin) am



Karo Sinnhuber (AT) klettert 'Die perfekte Welle' (Fb 8A+) in Tumpen (AT)




Erstbegehung: Hansjörg Auer, Much Mayr, Guido Unterwurzacher (AT) besteigen 6000er im Himalaya




Paige Claassen (US) klettert 'Algorithm' (9a)




Moritz Welt (DE) klettert 'Sever the wicked hand' (11) im Frankenjura (DE)


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Last week was just perfect! Got to send my second 9a, "Sever the wicked Hand" at #hängenderstein in #frankenjura on saturday, three days after I ticked one of the must-do's here, the classic boulder problem "Riot Act" 8B/+. Wanted to do both lines for such a long time and I'm so happy they went down pretty quick! Now it's time for my last year of school, hopefully with enough space for some more hard #projects Thanks to @manuelwelt for taking some pics today and to @simon_weisser for the belay in all of my sending tries! @evolv_de @rafiki_climbing @cafekraft_nuernberg #klettern #climbing #franken #frankenpower #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #niceday #sendingtimes #funisthecore #mmmgh #naturevibes #natureflash #noplacetoonear

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Moritz Welt (@moritzwelt_climbing) am



... und die Erstbegehung 'Midas' (11-/11) im Frankenjura (DE)


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Midas (8c+), First Ascent Yeah!!! Last saturday I could finally send the line at the beautiful #bärenschlucht #frankenjura crag I wanted to do for about two years now! It starts in "Triebwerke" and goes to the right after the first two bolts. Then a pumpy section about 8a leads directly into the crux which I think is an 8A+ fb boulder problem. After that you have to climb another section of 7c/+ to the top, which is also the upper part of a nice route called "Halbe Fürther Freiheit". So glad to have it done after a lot of cleaning and brushing! Big thanks to @lars.decker.549 for the pics! @evolv_de @rafiki_climbing @cafekraft_nuernberg #klettern #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #climbing #franken #frankenpower #mmmgh #noplacetoonear #natureflash #naturevibes #firstascent #midas

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Moritz Welt (@moritzwelt_climbing) am



Martin Stranik (CZ) klettert 'Sick and Hide' (Fb 8B+) im Maltatal (AT)




.... und 'The Essential' (11)


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Yeah!!! Surprised myself today with a super unexpected ascent of "The Essential" (9a) at the nice #luisenwand crag in the lovely #frankenjura! Tried this one about two years ago for like 3 or 4 sessions, but never had a realistic chance to send... last weekend I came back and had a quick look into the route just to check how the moves feel. It wasn't too bad so I came back today, figured out the moves once again and then totally smashed it in the next go! :) So satisfying! Time for some new projects now! ;) Thanks to @evolv_de @rafiki_climbing @cafekraft_nuernberg and to @manuelwelt for the spontaneous photosession! ;) #klettern #climbing #franken #frankenpower #essential #niceday #mmmgh #funisthecore #noplacetoonear #natureflash #naturevibes #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #sendingtimes #werstelltderhält

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Moritz Welt (@moritzwelt_climbing) am



Jonathan Siegrist (US) klettert 'Ghetto Booty' (5.14d) in Nevada (US)




Katha Saurwein (AT) und Jorg Verhoeven (NL) klettern 'Tainted Love' (5.13d, trad) in Squamish (CA)


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Wohoooooo. Double send!

Jim Pope (GB) klettert 'Meshuga' (E9, 6C) im Peak District (GB)




Erstbegehung: Adam Ondra klettert 'Four For Glory' (8c+) in Albanien




Louis Parkinson (GB) klettert 'Karma' (Fb 8A+) in Fontainebleau (FR)


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“Karma” - 8A+... birthday send :) ___ A bit of a relief to finally tick this one! Started trying it around five years ago, and have had so many frustrated session on it since! Nothing felt that different to any of the other million-plus attempts... except the birthday strength ;) ___ This was a sorely-needed win by the way. Me and my friends have spent 99% of the last two days dealing with car issues, but it looks like our streak of bad luck will be over by this evening (when all friends and cars will be finally reunited) and the weather looks goooooooood for the week! :D ___ •: @tim_has_limbs •Emotional support for 5+ years of effort: @creedadventure ‍️

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Louis Parkinson (@captaincutloose) am



Giuliano Cameroni (CH) klettert 'New Base Line' (Fb 8B+) in Magic Wood (CH)




Dru Mack (US) klettert 'Pure Imagination' (5.14d) in der Red River Gorge (US)




Caro Sinno (FR) klettert 'Trafic' (Fb 8b trav) in Fontainebleau (FR)


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Yesterday a dream of mine came true. I’ve always been inspired by Cathy Miquel and the crazy amount of hard and proud lines she realized in Font back in the days. And I never thought I could hold any almost-non-existant sloper of this climb- Trafic 8B, opened by her partner Christophe Laumone and that she climbed in 2002! Here I am almost 20 years later repeating one of the hardest and coolest trav of my favorite place Thanks for the support @upthatrock @kiellgram @lumartinez_93 @maxx_kim_park, it was so nice to share my happiness with you and a good meal in Milly afterwards and thanks again for the very cool photo @kiellgram!! • Quel bonheur hier d’avoir répété presque 20 ans après sa première répétition féminine par la légende vivante Cathy Miquel (première femme à avoir grimpé du 8b bloc avec ce bloc et pionnière à Bleau) une des plus belles et dures trav de Bleau, Trafic 8B, un sacré morceau avec des plats inexistants et une rési de pecs/biceps plutôt que des avant bras. Merci à mes amis présents c’était encore plus génial de partager ça avec vous @arkose.climbing @bealropes @frictionlabs #crimpoil @adidasterrex

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Caroline Sinno (@carosinno) am



Sean McColl (CA) klettert 'North Ridge' (Fb 8B+) in Squamish, BC (CA)


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“North Ridge” (V14, 8B+) ️ ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ This line is the hardest in Gibbs Cave and is the definition of power endurance. You climb through roughly 20 moves where no individual move is harder than V9/10; it starts at the back of the cave on powerful big moves, goes through a small dihedral on crimps and fingerlocks and finishes up the iconic “Black Hole”. After Georg got the first ascent back in 2008, I was working the line (around 2010) and on one of my redpoint tries, I snapped off the crux crimp. The move still worked but it was a bit harder. Over the years, it has seen a few ascents and for me it feels so satisfying to have now ticked that one off the bucket list. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ With all the competing and training, it’s been a while since I seriously tried a hard line outside. The feeling of re-learning moves, figuring out the best beta and waiting for holds to dry can be a process ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ The good weather here in Squamish won’t last forever but I’ve had an amazing October on multiple levels ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Already have a new project in this majestic forest after bumping into local legends Tim Doyle and Ben Harnden! Guesses? ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ @adidasterrex @scarpana @walltopia @joerockheads @verticalartclimbing @flashedclimbing @perfect_descent #verticalart #climbing #train #canada #instagood #picoftheday #photooftheday #athlete #igers #amazing #sports #fitspo #gymlife #power #fitfam #adventure #fitness #work #workhard #workout #strength #challenge #follow #ninja #gym #fun #squamish

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Sean McColl (@mccollsean) am



15.11.2018
Autor: Sarah Burmester
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