Highlights: Ondra, Firnenburg, Jung, Hayes

Foto: Bernardo Gimenez Adam Ondra klettert in Mavrovo, Mazedonien
Hier gibt's die härtesten Routen und Boulder-Begehungen der letzten Wochen. Dabei: Adam Ondra, David Firnenburg, Daniel Jung und Margo Hayes.

David Firnenburg (DE) klettert 'Le Cadafist' (9a) in St. Leger (FR)


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„Le Cadafist“ (9a) • Good news from Saint-Léger. Yesterday David sent this beautiful line after a heartbreaking fall from the very top because of a foot slip. It‘s the 2nd ascent after Gerome Pouvreau‘s FA in 2017. • As far as we know @adam.ondra broke off a key hold during his onsight attempt but the route still climbs really well. Bouldery moves on clean rock with mini tufa-pinches, pockets and crimps. Pumpy when you link them! • One more week to come with @andrea_kuemin here in Southern France We still want to check out Mollans. A nearby area with steep overhangs and tons of hard routes. It looks impressive. Allez • #makemovesnowar @scarpa_de @sporthilfe @frictionlabs @neprosport @haglofs @escaladrome_hannover @scarpaspa #davsektionrheinlandköln • #climbing #grimper #klettern #stleger #saintleger #rockclimb #montventoux #lifeisgood #psyched #chalkmatters #keepclimbing #noplacetoofar #beattheelements #climbing_is_my_passion #climbing_pictures_of_instagram

Ein Beitrag geteilt von David & Ruben Firnenburg (@firnenburgbrothers) am



... und 'Molasse'son' (8c+/9a) in Mollans (FR)


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„Mollasse‘son“ (8c+/9a) • Sweet ending for David of an amazing rock climbing trip to Southern France with @andrea_kuemin which unfortunately came to an end • We spent 3 weeks in St. Leger and Mollans-sur-Ouveze and did tons of hard climbing meters on the rope. Redpoint and onsight. • We definitely have to come back one day because we left so many nice lines unclimbed. But now it‘s time for one more week rock climbing in Switzerland and then back to serious winter training in the gym as #brothersinarms for next comp season‍️‍️ • #makemovesnowar @sporthilfe @scarpa_de @neprosport @haglofs @frictionlabs @scarpaspa @escaladrome_hannover #davsektionrheinlandköln • #climbing #rockclimb #mollans #stleger #mtventoux #firnenburgbrothers #rockclimbing_pictures_of_instagram #klettern #chalkmatters #keepclimbing #noplacetoofar #beattheelements

Ein Beitrag geteilt von David & Ruben Firnenburg (@firnenburgbrothers) am



Erstbegehung: Daniel Jung (DE) klettert 'Karamba Karacho' (9a?)




Erstbegehung: Adam Ondra (CZ) klettert Mazedoniens erste 9a




Erstbegehung: Adam Ondra (CZ) klettert 'Czech Trip' (9a+) in Mazedonien




Martin Mayer (DE) klettert 'Burn for you' (11-) im Frankenjura (DE)




Thomas Dauser (DE) klettert 'Headcrash' (11-) im Frankenjura (DE)




Markus Bock (DE) klettert 'The Funeral' (Fb 8B+) im Frankenjura (DE)




Erstbegehung: Thilo Schroeter (NO) klettert 'Agnes Buen' (9a) in Oslo (NO)


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Agnes Buen was bolted about 25 years ago and has become the most notorious project in Oslo since then. All the Norwegian strong men and a few international stars tried the route back in the 90s but got shut down. I think it was written off for many years until it was tried again by some friends of mine and I went out to try it myself. All the moves went within a session or two but they all felt really hard and linking them impossible. That season I had about five days on it, and ultimately I was able to make a link up to the crux, but there was just no way that the crux would go ground up anytime soon. The weather got bad and that was that. Two years passed without trying, but the route was still in the back of my mind. Fast forward to 2018, and after a long competition season I was very motivated to give myself the time to just maybe get it done this season. With no trips planed for a few months I started trying the route mid August in bad conditions to get it dialed for when the crisp conditions would arrive, as the window for good conditions in Norway is often very short. Minimum once a week I went out to try it. After about five sessions of working on it conditions arrived, and I had three solid sessions with exceptionally good friction. I was linking up to the crux most of my attempts but the low percentage crux move eluded me time and time again. The more I fell on the move the more I lost hope. As long as there is progress everything is cool, and generally I'm good at seeing progress in small details and not only in new high points, but eventually also the details were perfected and I was still falling over and over again on the same move. I even knew from the beginning that this stagnation probably would occur, and I thought I was prepared, but I wasn't, it was getting to me mentally. A lot of rain came in and made it impossible to try the route, I went to check the route a few times just to find it soaked. I thought thats it. I almost wanted the weather to suck so that I didn't have to keep failing. Continuation in the comment section!

Ein Beitrag geteilt von THILO SCHRÖTER (@thiloschroeter) am



Margo Hayes (US) klettert 'Mind Control' (8c) in Oliana (ES)




Erstbegehung: Jimmy Webb (US) klettert 'King of the Jungle' (V13) in Tahoe (US)




Babsi Zangerl (AT) klettert 'Sangre de Toro' (8b+, 6SL) an der Roten Wand (AT)




Guillaume Glairon Mondet (FR) klettert 'Asymptote' (Fb 8B) in Fontainebleau (FR)




Beto Rocasolano klettert 9a-Erstbegehung




Foto: Archiv Moser Tilo Moser klettert Kanal im Rücken clean

Tilo Moser hat Güllichs Meilenstein 'Kanal im Rücken' selbst abgesichert (auch: greenpoint) geklettert.

Tilo Moser klettert 'Kanal im Rücken' (10) grünpunkt / clean

Orrin Coley klettert 'Sean’s Roof' (Fb 8A+) in the Peak District (GB)




Mina Leslie-Wujastyk klettert 'Raining Bats and Dogs' (8c) in Malham (GB)


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Raining Bats and Dogs (8c) . After falling off the same move (pictured) high on the headwall eleven (!) times, I was beyond psyched to get through it and climb to the top yesterday! Sometimes you have to just keep turning up and trying hard and hoping one day you don’t fall off. All it needed was Haribo Strawbs, some high pitched power screams, a bit of luck and a lesson in patience! Photo thanks to @johnthornton_photography Thanks to @jamesalexanderturnbull for all the belays, @tanya_meredith for getting me hooked on Strawbs and everyone else for making Malham such a fun place to be . Best part is I can stop resting as much now . #celebratewild #brandofthebrave #arcteryx #malham #batsanddogs #patience #routes #climbing @arcteryx @fiveten_official @dmm_wales @betaclimbingdesigns @organicclimbing

Ein Beitrag geteilt von mina leslie-wujastyk (@minaclimbing) am



Cedric Lachat (CH) klettert 'Jungfraumarathon' (9a) in Gimmelwald (CH)




Paul Robinson (US) klettert 'Delirium' (V15), Lincoln Lake (US)


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I have been stressing hard over this line for the past week or so. After falling off the final move to the jug a few days back, it feels great to finish up “Delirium,” V15/8C up at Lincoln lake! This boulder is 18 moves long out a roof and sits at about 12,000 ft above sea level (~3,700 m)! It really required a sport climbing mentality of utilizing the rest in the middle and keeping it all together for the hard exit sequence. Thanks to @lancecarrera @punkaca @jeremy_fullerton , @isaac_palatt , nuno, Steven, frank, etc for hiking down there, moving pads, blocking sun, and motivating me to climb this thing! Can’t wait to train more and start working the next project of the season soon!#bouldering

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Paul Robinson (@paulrobinson87) am



Martin Stranik (CZ) klettert 'Wendelove' (Fb 8B) in Modrin (CZ)




Kim Marschner (DE) rockt die Rocklands (ZA)




Erstbegehung: Joe Kinder (US) klettert 'Diarrhhea Mouth' (9a) in Rifle (US)




Daniel Woods (US) klettert 'Ace of Spade' (5.14d/15a) in Utah (US)


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Ace of Spade (14d/15a) 2nd asc. made a spontaneous trip out to UT to check out the poptire cave with @eline_lemenestrel. I have heard about this cave but had no idea what to expect. It is super remote and rugged. . I was shown an unrepeated James Litz line called Peruvian Necktie (15a). It had an alternate exit called Ace of Spade (14d). Both these lines immediately caught my eye. After a couple days of work I repeated Ace of Spade (fell twice at the v4 crux near the anchor haha due to 0 endurance) then began to try Peruvian Necktie. I ended up falling near the end of the final boulder a couple times. . Breakdown of Ace is intro 10 move v12/13 bloc, ok rest, 5 move v10, bad rest, 8 move v10 to 13a outro. I felt this line could be more 15a than 14d. peruvian is same first two boulders but finishes with a final v11/12 to 13b. this thing felt more 15b. . it felt good to get pumped again after taking 5 months off sport climbing. will return back for the necktie!! awesome effort with these two routes James!!!! . photos @mikecall

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Daniel Woods (@dawoods89) am



Michiel Nieuwenhuijsen (NL) klettert 'Isle of Wonder' (Fb 8B) in Owens Valley, Wales (GB)




Trainings-Krassowitsch des Tages: Toshi Takeushi (JP) schafft Hangwaage an kleinen Fingern




23.10.2018
Autor: Sarah Burmester
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