Highlights: Karalus, Perwitzschky, Winter, Gassner

Foto: Climb to Heaven Jonas Winter klettert Dolby Surround 8c+/9a im Zillertal
Auch im August und September wurde hart geklettert: Von Pakistan bis Canada, hier gibt es die schwersten Routen und Boulder der letzten Wochen im Überblick.

Die härtesten Züge der letzten Wochen im Überblick.

Philipp Gassner (DE) flasht 'Lightsaber' (Fb 8A) in Rocklands (ZA)




... und klettert 'Ubuntu' (Fb 8B)


Ubuntu 8b • striking line in #rocklands @vincentontherocks @petzl_official @scarpa_de

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Philipp Gaßner (@philipp.gassner) am



Thomas Lindinger (DE) klettert 'Bullrider' (Fb 8B) im Frankenjura (DE)




Jonas Winter (CE) klettert 'Dolby Surround' (8c+/9a) im Zillertal (AT)




Moritz Perwitzschky (DE) klettert 'Nose vs Beauty' (Fb 8C) in Rocklands (ZA)




Julia Chanourdie (FR) klettert 'Cabane au Canada' (9a) in Rawyl (CH)




Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (GB) klettert Nordic Plumber (8c) in Flatanger (NU)




Julia Chanourdie (FR) klettert 'La Cabane au Canada' (9a) in Rawyl (CH)




Doro Karalus (DE) klettert 'Tor zur Hölle' & 'Triple X' im Frankenjura (DE)




... und XXL (Fb 8A)




Jimmy Webb (US) klettert 'Dreamcatcher' (5.14d) in Squamish (CA)




Jimmy Webb (US) crusht in Fontainebleau (FR) und Cresciano (CH)




Federica Mingolla (IT) befreit 'Addio al Celibato' (8a+, MSL) in Gole di Frasassi (IT)


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Il @frasassiclimbingfestival di quest'anno mi ha regalato un giorno di arrampicata in compagnia di @matteodellabordella su una delle vie multipitch più difficili della Gola di Frasassi: "Addio al Celibato" finita di chiodare da @samuele_mazzolini nel 2015. Da oggi questa via esce dall'anonimato perché oltre a sapere che è dura sappiamo anche I gradi Dopo essere riuscita a scalare I tiri chiave posso dire che siamo intorno all' 8a+ e il 7c+. Presto(o tardi ) più informazioni su questa splendida via ! Nella : 1° tiro di 8a+ , un sogno @zerogravityproductionsitalia . . This year at the @frasassiclimbingfestival I had the honor to climb with @matteodellabordella and we tried to freeclimb an hard multipitch route in Gole di Frasassi : "Addio al Celibato" bolted by @samuele_mazzolini and with a magnific limestone After being able to freeclimb the two hard pitches I could say they are 8a+ and 7c+, hoping to have more opinions about this route soon . .@zerogravityproductionsitalia. . @adidasterrex @adidasterrex_climb @asporteyewear @lasportivagram @petzl_official @sherpamountainshop . . #climbing_is_my_passion #climbing_girls_of_instagram #climbing #outdoors #lifestyle #fcf #multipitch #goledifrasassi

Ein Beitrag geteilt von federica mingolla (@federica_mingolla) am



Angus Kille (GB) klettert 'Trauma' (E8 7a) in Wales (GB)


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I've had an on-off obsession with this iconic route for years, can't believe I finally managed it yesterday . There's an awesome flow to climbing the technical sequence when you have it really wired, it was incredible executing all of that on the lead. Originally given E9 by Leo and still worth about 8a+ sport, it's ace to have a steep and sustained trad route in the Pass . Thanks @calummuskett for a loyal belay, @gaiaadventures for holding my falls earlier in the week, @j.bunney for this cracking photo and @white_van_media for getting some exciting footage I can't wait to see. And thanks Bunney, Hans and Calum for hanging around in the cold yesterday while I waited for my fingers to thaw and finally tie-in! . Trauma E8 7a . @dmm_wales @scarpa_uk #northwales #snowdonia #snowdonianationalpark #mountains #outdoors #snowdoniagram #climbing_is_my_passion #climbing #tradclimbing #tradisrad #instafit #outdooradventures #northwalestagram #rockclimbing #exploremore #adventure #cymru #climbing_photos_of_instagram #climbinglife

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Angus Kille (@angus.kille) am



Foto: pinetflorence.blogspot.com Florence Pinet & Gerome Pouvreau climbing Pembroke 2018

Florence Pinet in Pembroke.

Gérome Pouvreau & Florence Pinet räumen in Großbritannien ab

Das französische Paar Gérome Pouvreau und Florence Pinet konnten in Wales einige Toplinien klettern. Beide wiederholten The Big Issue (E9 6c), Chupacabra (E8/9 6c) und Point Blank (E8 6c) in Pembroke, Gérome gelang auch noch Muy Caliente (E10 6c). Außerdem kletterten beide The Quarryman (E8 7A) in den Llanberis Slate Quarries. Dann reisten die starken Franzosen noch nach Schottland und in Dumbarton konnte Gérome noch Rhapsody (E11 7a) und Requiem (E8 6b) klettern.

Madeleine Cope (GB) klettert 'Mustang' (8a trad) in Cadarese (IT)


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Another day, another crack climb, and another story about @hazel_findlay. I belayed Hazel on Mustang (8a trad) on our first visit to Cadarese. She managed an impressive onsight, which on this sort of tricky lay back means trusting blindly placed gear and/or running it out. Hazel ran it out, but I think I was more scared than her and this belay was a memorable one. I didnt have that sort of confidence so I took some practise falls and was happy to climb it on my second go, sweating it out in the full sun and forgetting the sequence I had worked on out my first go. There is a funky boulder problem to gain the lay back and then you just have to keep moving - what's not to like. #hammerlinie @mammut_uk @lasportivagram

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Maddy Cope (@madeleine_cope) am



... und 'The Doors' (8a trad)


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The Doors (8a+/8a/7c+/whatever on trad) has been a dream route of mine ever since @hazel_findlay and I visited Cadarese 5 years ago. I hadn't done much crack climbing at this point and mostly bounced around on a top rope, but something about this style of climbing lured me in. Watching @hazel_findlay style The Doors only inspired me more. Since then this style of climbing has led me across the pond and up El Cap. But this year Ryan and I decided to kit out our van and explore Europe rather than pay out for flights to the States. Unfortunately, on route to Cadarese our home broke down. We spent a morning driving to different garages, trying to communicate with a distinct lack of Italian, and worrying whether it was going to cost the equivalent of flights to the States to fix. Luckily, we were back on the road by lunchtime. Feeling pretty drained we decided to ease ourselves in at Cadarese - do some mileage. However, watching Jonny dig deep on The Doors, I couldn't resist. I got reasonably far on my first go, but after falling and working out the crux I seemed to have an instant sugar crash from the 2 pastries I had eaten to celebrate the van being fixed. I struggled my way to the top, drenched in sweat in the humidity, getting scared above my bomber cams, and taking about 20 tries to commit to the last move. I guess I felt a bit dejected, but it was nothing a packet of crisps and beer couldn't sort out. I decided to give The Doors a rest for a couple of days. Today I went back and after an initial working go to get the moves sussed and decide on gear I managed to send the route. It wasn't exactly 'a muete' (in Ryan's words I rested my way up it) but I really enjoyed the climb and definitely had to lay one on for the last hold! Thanks to @hazel_findlay for the #thedoors #dreamline @mammut_uk @lasportivagram

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Maddy Cope (@madeleine_cope) am



Erstbegehung: Read MacAdam (CA) klettert 'Back to the Future' (8b+) in Droide, Valle Dell’Orco (IT)




Erstbegehung: Dave Graham (US) klettert 'Parzival' (Fb 8C) in Rocklands (ZA)


Made the first ascent of Parzival 8C] last week out in the Gallery This amazing line baffled me the first time I saw it years ago; it looked super cool but I had no clue how to climb it After stumbling upon it again during a hike this this season I saw astonished that it possibly could work, and if so, it would be a crazy epic two-part rig which sits at the base of this crazy disc shaped bloc suspended over a small canyon and summits directly up the prow . After the initial beta hunting sessions had ensued, it was quite clear it was gonna not be easy to conquer this beast Super technical yet fierce in its nature, this thing is a crazy mix of power-resistance climbing, body position, memory, kneebars and yes; blind toe-hooking !!! I was enchanted by the style of climbing, the rock, and its length; early on the fear set in of punting of the complex 8a finish once your done with the poor rest Ultimately it took many sessions to become familiar with the super burly entrance, extremely dry conditions, and a little bit of luck that everything sort of slides in to place to take this one to the top️One week left before Switzerland to play with all the infinite boulders here VAMOSSSS @island_io @fiveten_official @petzl_official @frictionlabs @sendclimbing

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Dave Graham (@dave_graham_) am



Stephan Vogt (DE) klettert 'Shangri-La' (11-/11) im Frankenjura




Nalle Hukkataival (FI) klettert 'Kingda Ka' (Fb 8B) am Gotthard (CH)




Katherine Choong (CH) klettert 'La Cabane au Canada' (9a) in Rawyl (CH)


Yeahh !! I’m incredibly happy to have climbed yesterday CABANE AU CANADA, my first 9a ! This route is a huge achievement for me and the hardest I have ever done. After falling again and again a few meters under the chains on a dynamic move, yesterday, the 4th climbing day in a raw, on the 3rd attempt of the day, exhausted, something clicks: I found my flow, every move felt much easier, I was finally ready to give it all. I sticked the dyno and clipped the chains a few minutes before the night. That’s the magic of climbing I guess What an epic day ! Thanks everyone for your kind messages, Rainer Eder and Marco Felix for capturing the moment and Jim for supporting me in every moment. Picture : @rainer_eder @mammut_swiss1862 @scarpaspa @banquecantonaledujura

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Katherine Choong (@choongkatherine) am



Erstbegehung: Brette Harrington (CA) klettert 'Crouching Tiger' (5.12b+, 500m)




Hazel Findlay (GB) klettert 'Super Cirill' (8a) im Tessin (CH)




Christof Rauch (AT) klettert 'Ubuntu' (Fb 8B) in Rocklands (ZA)




Erstbegehung: Giuliano Cameroni (CH) klettert 'The Smile' (Fb 8C) in Rocklands (ZA)


First ascent of this unique boulder called “The Smile” (8c)

... und 'Black Eagle' (Fb 8C) in Rocklands (ZA)




Daniel Woods (US) wiederholt 'Skadoosh' (Fb 8B+) in Rocklands (ZA)




Marine Thevenet (FR) klettert 'Law and Order' (Fb 8A+) in Rocklands (ZA)




Matt Fultz (US) klettert 'Let the Right one in' (V14) in Mt Evans (US)




Chaehyeon Seo (KOR), 14 Jahre alt, klettert 'Bad Girls Club' (5.14d) in Rifle (US)




Foto: Jean-Louis Wertz Nicoas Favresse & Co Erstbegehung Thagas Valley, Pakistan

Erstbegehung: Nicoas Favresse, Mathieu Maynadier, Carlitos Molina, Jean-Louis Wertz eröffnen Routen im Thagas Valley, Pakistan

Nicos Kurzbericht:

"Thagas Valley remains with several beautiful unclimbed peaks and great objectives rock and mix climbs. From our experience the rock was generally not as good as it looked like from a distance but still good fun.

This is the two climbs we opened in Thagas valley.

- 31/07-5/08 First ascent of Pathan peak (+-6000m) via The Pathan pillar - 6b - A1 (which could be free climbed at around 7a) - 900meters. Over the course of 3 days we fixed the first 300 meters then we spent another 2 days on the wall fixing some extra meters above our portaledges before making our push to the summit. Team : Mathieu Maynadier, Carlitos Molina, Jean-Louis Wertz and Nicolas Favresse

-15/08 First ascent of Pathani Peak (+- 6000m) via Pathani 6a ,M6, 600m (300m of snow ramp + 300m of technical climbing) opened by Carlitos Molina and Nicolas Favresse in a 17h round trip from camp to camp."

Im 4. Monat schwanger: Caroline Ciavaldini (FR) klettert 8a onsight


Japan - in between 2 #sawanobori . I surprised myself with an onsight of Dr meïji, 8a in Gozene iwa, at 4 months and a half of pregnancy! Began the day hoping to top rope a 7b, but the crag was very good, overhanging, and I knew I could trust my belayer @honngy for a very soft belay... So I jumped onto that route, it attracted me... I am pretty sure that mini enjoyed it too, he always seems happy to climb... What we don't like : hiking. Even worst is the idea of running. . I guess pregnancy is all about what your body is used to, and listening to your sensations. For those who would worry for us, don't, I get a lot of advices from my friend @carole_palmier_climb, mid wife And 8c+ climber! . @thenorthfaceuk @wildcountry_official @lasportivagram #neverstopexploring #pureclimbing Thanks @maechan82kgclimber for the great picture!

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Caro&James Ciavaldini/Pearson (@onceuponaclimb) am



14.09.2018
Autor: Sarah Burmester
© klettern