Highlights: Hanke, Ondra, Faus, Wientjes, Fell

Foto: Archiv Wientjes Flo Wientjes bouldert Golden Gate 8B Silvretta
Die härtesten Züge der letzten Wochen auf einen Blick – dabei: Chiara Hanke, Adam Ondra, Isabelle Faus, Flo Wientjes, Frederike Fell... und noch ein paar mehr.

Hier gibt es die krassesten Boulder und Routen-Begehungen der letzten Wochen. Erstbegehungen sind auch dabei, und dann vielleicht noch die Spurenbeseitigung von Begehungen...

Chiara Hanke (DE) klettert 'Wallstreet' (11-) im Frankenjura (DE)




Adam Ondra (CZ) klettert 'First Flight' (8c+) onsight




Erstbegeuhung: Paul Robinson klettert 'The Pirate’s Code' (Fb 8C) in Rocklands (ZA)


To describe something so meaningful and time consuming to me in a single post...Where do you start? In 2014 I guess... I found this boulder tucked away in the shadow of a beautiful cedar tree. The sun was setting and the boulder was glowing. I gazed upon the small holds and pondered if the line was feasible. I put some chalk on my hands and felt the holds. I left that season having not tried the boulder but thinking about it constantly. I revisited the line in 2015. I had other projects that year and didn’t get to try it but it still remained in the forefront of my thoughts when I thought of dream first ascents in South Africa. Would it go? If it did, it was sure to be a gem. 2016... I tried it for the first time. I didn’t do many of the moves. It felt really hard. I needed to train harder and come back for this thing. 2017... the line was all I wanted to do. I did a sort of stand start but left SA without the main prize, the full line. I needed to get stronger. 2018... on my first day of working the line, it all felt different. The moves felt better. I knew this could be the season. I put in a few days on the line and started to get closer. After a big snow storm, the temps were perfect, the wind was blowing, and I knew it was time. As the sun set and I set my pads out, I felt a sense of peace. I didn’t feel nervous anymore like I had in the past. I tried a few of the moves and decided to give it a try from the start. From the moment I pulled onto the wall, I climbed flawlessly. First crux done, second done, third crux, the stab move to the slot... done. The only thing separating me from the top of the boulder was a ~V8/7B+ section. Without hesitating, I climbed it and found myself topping out on the finishing jugs. Surreal is an understatement. 2014-2018 this climb, this single boulder that no one else in the world may have ever seen before me, had been finally climbed in a mere 1 minute of time. It’s kind of hard to wrap my head around still days later. Climbing is my life. Climbing brings me so much joy and happiness. To all the climbers out there, don’t take it for granted and appreciate it all. from the FA of “The Pirate’s Code” V15/8C. #bouldering

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Paul Robinson (@paulrobinson87) am



Isabelle Faus (USA) klettert 'doppelgänger Poltergeist' (Fb 8B) in Rocky Mountain National Park (USA)

Samuel Elias (US) klettert 'Shadowboxing’ (5.14d) in Rifle (US)


@bookofsamuel taking down one of the best in Rifle, ‘Shadowboxing’ (5.14d)

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Matty Hong (@honngy) am



Emma Twyford (GB) klettert 'Nightmayer' (E8 6c) in Dinas Cromlech, Wales (GB)


That dream line! One that has eluded me with the weather and work over the last couple of years. I’d first seen and heard about Nightmayer (E8 6c) watching the video of @nicofavresse taking some air miles off the head wall whilst nick bullock looked on. Maybe this is what put people off for so many years. I first seriously thought about this route when Alex mason was looking at it and achieved an impressive 3rd ascent followed the next year by @angus.kille with an equally impressive ascent. The Cromlech has an intimidating yet impressive aura with some of the best trad climbing around. This was my last king line on the cromlech that I was mega psyched to try. On the day it still had its spicy moments. Myself and @jamestayloroutdoor rocked up to find a random wet streak on house of god into and out of the porthole. Needless to say this was terrifying on lead as the bottom is bold with small kit. It took a lot of mental effort to change my mental set up for the top hard section but I was ready to fight to the top. Perfect climbing with just the right amount of good kit to run it out and take some good air miles if you fluff it! Still in awe of @Steve.mayers first ascent of this line back in 1992! Really puts things in perspective, great effort Steve! Thanks to @jamestayloroutdoor for the belay, your next buddy! And @j.bunney for the @dmm_wales @scarpa_uk @frictionlabs @patagonia_climb @patagoniaeurope @climbskinspain @v12_outdoor @northdartmoorsearchrescueteam @pongoose.climbing

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Emma Twyford (@emmatwyford) am



Frederike Fell (DE) klettert 'Odd Fellows' (11-) im Frankenjura (DE)




Thomas Dauser (DE) klettert 'Via Italia' (8a) am Piz Ciavazes, Dolomiten (IT)


Super happy that I could free climb "Via Italia" (8a, 280m) this weekend at Piz Ciavazes, Dolomites. In detail the pitches are 3, 6a+, 7b, 7c+, 8a, 6b, 7a+, all in all quite steep climbing on mainly pitons of very different quality. Especially the steep 7c+ with a crimpy finish and the 6 meter roof of the 8a pitch are very spectacular. I fell once in each of these hard pitches at the last moves, before being able to send them. Quite a mental game in the end, being able to focus enough and simply climb in this steep and exposed setting. As I never climbed the last 7a+ pitch before, I was not sure what to expect there, but could luckily onsight it. . Thanks @maexdauser for the hours belaying at steep, uncomfortable, and exposed belays. And thanks to Lorin, with whom I checked out the hard pitches few weeks ago, which helped a lot. . (1) Happy faces in the evening light after completing the route. (2) Mäx at the last moves of the 7c+ pitch. Stay tuned, I've got some moving pictures as well the next days. . . @dmm_wales @scarpa_de #climbnowworklater

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Thomas Dauser (@thdauser) am



Thilo Schroeter (NO) klettert 'Simple Knowing' (Fb 8B) in Rocklands (ZA)




Annaliina Laitinen (FI) klettert 'Law and Order' (Fb 8A+) in Rocklands (ZA)




Angus Kille klettert Indian Face (E9 6c), Clogwyn Y Arddu, Wales, (GB)




Nils Favre (CH) klettert 'El Corazon' (Fb 8B) in Rocklands (ZA)


so warm here in Rocklands! But I just climbed one of my dream line! . After complaining all day that conditions were horrible. I waited all afternoon to have one try just before the night. . Around 10years ago, @dawoods89 made me dream in the progression movie by jumping with one hand on a small crimp. 4years ago, I felt really strong but understood that this boulder wasn’t for me, too far, too hard... . Two days ago I did the big move on my second try and realized that I‘m able to climb this rock! Today was warm but just before the night I had one successful try. . It’s far from my hardest boulder but I needed to focus and try hard to send. I feel really happy and proud to add this one in my ticklist. It was definitely a dream and I feel really lucky to have the opportunity to try it today! . “El Corazon, 8B”! . Felt this grade for me and my size! . #pourla2 #milletriseup @millet_mountain @blackdiamond_climb @lookmontagne @climbskinspain @flathold #climbing

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Nils Favre (@nilsfavre) am



Piotr Schab (PO) klettert 'Ali Hulk Extension Total' (9a+) in Rodellar (ES)


Whoooooaaaaaaaaa What a brilliant way to finish the trip Ali went smooth, didn’t mess up Hulk, Extension felt easy, Total made me FIGHT ️ ️ Ali Hulk Extension Total 9a+ ️ Thank you everybody for the betas, pads&kneepads, cheer and motivation! • • • • @patagonia_climb @patagoniaeurope @wildcountry_official @scarpa_pl @scarpaspa @iurapl @sublimeclimbing #climbing #climbing_is_my_passion #climbing_lovers #climbing_worldwide #climbinglife #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #timetoclimb #climb #climber #wspinanie #wspinaczka #wspinaniepl #arrampicata #klettern #outdoorclimbing #escalada #escalade #rocks #rockclimbing #sportclimbing #doyouclimb #climbingrocks #iloooveit #grippedmagazine #rockandice #climberslife #climbingisbliss #rodellar

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Piotr Schab (@piotr_schab) am



Dave Fitzgerald (IE) klettert 'New Base Line' (Fb 8B+) in Magic Wood (CH)




Alizée Dufraisse (FR) klettert 'Leopard Cave' & 'Law and Order' (beide FB 8A+) in Rocklands (ZA)




Matt Fultz (US) klettert 'Warrior Up' (V14) am Mount Evans (US)




Natalie Bärtschi (CH) klettert 'Swallow Cave' (Fb 8A) in Rocklands, ZA




Clement Lechaptois (FR) klettert 'Get railed' (Fb 8B) in Rocklands (ZA)




Flo Wientjes (DE) klettert 'Golden Gate' (Fb 8B) in der Silvretta (AT)


Golden Gate 8B

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Florian Wientjes (@testaro22a) am



Tilo Schroeter (SE) klettert 'Spray of Light' (Fb 8C) in Rocklands (ZA)


Spray of Light • 8C

Ein Beitrag geteilt von THILO SCHRÖTER (@thiloschroeter) am



Hansjörg Auer klettert die Westwand des Lupghar Sar West in Pakistan




Jacqueline Fritz gewinnt Paraclimbing




Chris Frick hält unsere Umwelt sauber


Being climbers it is our responsibility to take care for our playground : the rock, the mountains! . Last week @jonas.allemann and me cuted off or collected 150 m old, scruffy and destroyed fix ropes from the Geneva Pillar on the North Face of the Eiger... and carried the heavy loads up to the westringe and down to the valley for waste disposal... . It‘s strange nobody did it before, because some unused ropes dangled around for more than a decade! Littering is an issue that affects us all... . So if you find old and crappy mat, take it with you! Leave the mountains clean! . PS - we replaced some fixropes, but I promise to check these in the next few years if they need to be removed! . . #eiger #northface #cleaning #nolittering #issue #that #affects #us #all #climbing #klettern #escalade #multipitch #alpinesportclimbing #swissclimbing #climbingday #climbingisbliss #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #climbing_worldwide #climbing_lovers #climbing_is_my_passion #c_l_i_m_b #onsight_climbing #climbingismypassion #climblife #rockclimbing #climblife #climber #climbingnation

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Chris Frick (@chrisfrick_) am



20.07.2018
Autor: Sarah Burmester
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