Highlights: Graham, Unger, Leistner und mehr

Foto: Luis Gerhardt Leon Fraunholz klettert The Dagger 8B im Tessin
Im Überblick: Harte Boulder und Routen, die in den letzten Wochen geklettert wurden. Dabei: Simon Unger, Robert Leistner, Dave Graham und viele mehr.

Simon Unger (DE) klettert 'The Dagger' (Fb 8B+) in Cresciano (CH)

... und 'Off the Wagon' (Fb

Dave Graham (US) klettert 'La Rambla' (9a+) in Siurana (ES)

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Two weeks ago I climbed the legendary La Rambla 9a+] here in Siurana After spending the majority of my time in the boulders over the last ten years its hard to describe how awesome it feels to climb a long hard route again It was real meditative which was particularly intriguing, and got me super inspired climb more routes in this style!!! After a couple weeks of unseasonably hot weather which produced some rather dismal attempts, that magic Siurana wind returned, and I unexpectedly found myself climbing through the final crux Stay tuned for a some more pictures and the raw Iphone send footy, as well as some proper story telling about the ascent Time to stay focused on La Capella 9b] and my other rogue projects in the sector Only ten days left @fiveten_official @petzl_official @adidasterrex @climb_up_officiel @frictionlabs @sendclimbing @climbskinspain @alizee_dufraisse

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Dave Graham (@dave_graham_) am

Robert Leistner (DE) klettert 'Bleu sacré' (Fb 8B) in Fontainebleau (FR)

Leon Fraunholz klettert 'The Dagger' (Fb 8B+) in Chironico (CH)

... und 'Shadowfax' (Fb 8b) in Chironico (CH)

... und 'Santoku' (Fb 8B) in Bodio, Tessin (CH)

Luis Gerhardt (DE) klettert 'Delusion of Grandeur' (Fb 8A+) im Tessin (CH)

Erstbegehung: Gabriele Moroni (IT) klettert 'Twiga' (Fb 8B+?) im Val d'Aosta (IT)

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TWIGA, Val d’Aosta(NW Italy) I remember checking out this cave a few years ago with @niky_ceria right after he found it. Sat in a river bed, and suffering floods, Niky named the spot the “muddy cave” because of the nature of the floor... This winter has been a very dry one making the cave a bit more confortable to stay into. At the end of January Niky finished the last project, the main mega line, calling it Twiga. I went back to the cave a few weeks ago and I immediately got hooked by the quality of the problems. On my first two days I focused my attention on the two “easier” ones, Fake Class 8a and Undercut 8b but already had a couple of sessions on the harder one as well. Twiga finally took me three more days of effort before sending it last Saturday, on a perfect dry and breezy day! I feel that, on this style, short and burly, it’s one of the hardest problems I’ve ever climbed... super powerful, tensiony and intricate! About the grade, Niky has not given one like he used to do lately, but for me it felt a notch harder than almost every 8b+ I managed to climb in the last year... @e9clothing_official @petzl_official @dinamicheverticalisrl @scarpaspa @frictionlabs @bigapesport @urbanwallmilano #e9team #petzlteam #dinamicheverticalisrl #scarpaspa #frictionlabs #bigapesport #urbanwall

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Gabriele Moroni (@gabrimoroni) am

Alex Puccio (US) klettert 'New Map of Hell' (V12) und flasht 'Wooden Mushroom' (V10)

Stefano Ghisolfi (IT) klettert 'Queen Line' (9b) in Arco (IT)

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Today, totally unexpectedly, I did the second ascent of the hardest route in Italy and very first 9b of Arco, The Queen Line, climbed for the first time by @adam.ondra and bolted by Mauro Mabboni. I was very close to falling in every part of the route, even when the hardest section was over, and I had to give my 100% to complete the climb. The route is slightly harder then the other 9b's I climbed, so it's the second hardest route for me just after Perfecto Mundo. Thanks to @sara_grip for the pic and Mauro for bolting this masterpiece and for the video (that is coming soon!). @gardatrentino • • • @thenorthface @lasportivagram @camp1889 @epictv @hrtholds @misuraweb #neverstopexploring @fiammeoromoena #fiammeoromoena • #climb #climbing #steghisati #rockclimbing #klettern #escalade #bouldering #climbing_pictures_of_instagram

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Stefano Ghisolfi (@steghiso) am

Nalle Hukkataival (FI) klettert 'Sleepwalker' (V16) in Red Rock Canyon (US)

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Last year I opened this project in Red Rocks and after putting in the work was close to climbing it - falling off the last move. Then frigid winter temperatures claimed the canyon. Even sticking around for two more months trying to seal the deal, I never got a fighting chance. Returning for a rematch this winter I routinely worked my way back to where I‘d been - hoping to get an actual shot this year. It was really refreshing to finally session the boulder with someone. @jwebxl and @dawoods89 had teamed up earlier this winter to take it down. Their beta however was of no use for me. Ultimately the boulder is about a friction sloper crux with a barely-there bicycle to gain the slot crimp. Jimmy and Daniel both had the arm-span to bypass this sequence so I was alone fighting my own fight. This low percentage, friction reliant sequence - combined with my skin issues in the desert - made for low odds to catch the conditions I required. Half the “climbing” days consisted of just showing up and not being able to get any grip on the rock. Or do any climbing. It all boiling down to weather watching and very little actual climbing put a big dent in my motivation and made me question whether it’s even worthwhile to keep dragging myself out there day after day. Yesterday I sent it. It was quite anticlimactic. It didn’t seem like anything that I hadn’t already done 10 times. My skin just didn’t fail me that time. I‘m happy it didn’t. All in all, stoked!! Also a lesson to be learned about how not every battle is necessarily worth fighting. I struggle when climbing becomes all about managing external factors and very minimally about the actual climbing. Just hours later another winter storm put an end to climbing here for a while. You’re bound to get lucky every now and then! Yes!! In-depth video piece coming from @mindframecinema @blackdiamond @lasportivagram

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Nalle Hukkataival (@nalle_hukkataival) am

Guntram Jörg (AT) klettert 'Arzak' (Fb 8C) im Murgtal (CH)

Keenan Takahashi (US) klettert 'The Seventh Circle' (V14) in Hueco Tanks (US)

Thomas Lindinger (DE) klettert 'Wirbeljet' (Fb 8B) im Frankenjura (DE)

Thilo Schröter (NO) flasht 'Nagual' (V13) in Hueco Tanks (US)

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Nagual • V13 • Flash ⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀ ⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀ I usually don’t set myself goals other than climbing boulders that are appealing. Setting a grade or result oriented goal is more than often disappointing and not very motivating, for me at least. But for this trip I wanted to challenge myself and see if I could make a proper V13 flash happen, as I really enjoy the challenge of flashing regardless of grade. I’ve flashed one 8B before - Monkey Business in Rocklands three years ago, but that one is pretty low end, and I wanted to prove to myself that I could do it again, and hopefully on a more regular basis. I got heartbreakingly close on Vecchio Leone is Brione two years ago, but since then it’s been dry. Hueco seemed like an “easy” place to flash hard with it’s physically challenging boulders so I was psyched! Initially I had looked out Crown of Aragon and checked it out on a few occasions, but Nagual was definitely a contender as well. I of course wanted to wait for the right moment as it takes some time to get past the jet lag and adapt to the style, not to mention skin and conditions. I waited long, for six weeks, and after two rest days on our last day in the Tanks it was time to give one of them a fucking memorable effort. I decided to put all my eggs in the Nagual-basket. My skin couldn’t have been any better and a nice breeze was going through the cave. I was ready. I pulled on. The beginning of the boulder felt really casual and it felt like I couldn’t let go, but it quickly turned into a huge fight, and the last moves were extremely shaky and desperate, it felt like my fingers were pushed to the very limit. The feeling of topping this one out has to be the highlight of the trip. Psyched to make this little Hueco-goal of mine a reality, and happy for the good times I’ve had out here in Hueco with Tina and all the other good people! One more week in Red Rocks awaits us before we’re headed back home to the cold.

Ein Beitrag geteilt von THILO SCHRÖTER (@thiloschroeter) am

Matt Fultz (US) klettert 'Memory is Parallax' & 'Mind to Motion' (beide V14) in Colorado (US)

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First double V14 day for me! I haven’t had much luck with climbing recently, so to have a successful day out feels so so good. Despite my ribs hurting like crazy, I made a quick 1-day send of Memory is Parallax (pics 1-3). Then we hiked up the hill and, this time with good temps, sent Mind to Motion (pic 4)! I think it’s worth noting that I did MTM from the original start holds and position, which seemed a bit harder and more fun. But it’s outdoor climbing so who cares. From wherever you start, both climbs are absolutely 5 star lines! by @arjandekock, thanks for the good day out. @madrockclimbing @asanaclimbing @frictionlabs @craftedenergybars @tensionclimbing @kailas_climbing

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Matt Fultz (@matt_fultz) am

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‚Fado‘, 8c/8c+ is done in three tries. After some tries already last autumn, the weather became pretty bad and I never went back. The plan was to leave it, and try it after all the training from this winter. It‘s a good test to see if my resistance improved. Last saturday I finally had the result and I‘m quite happy how it all turned out as I really wanted to finish it in one day this year. It‘s such a nice route and it climbs really well. Long and some hard moves all the way up. On to the next! video: @lionelsteiner . @karpos @scarpaspa @dmm_wales @sponser.sportfood . #climbing #climb #rock #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #rockclimbing #outdoor #switzerland #lehn #alps #interlaken #crimps #outdoorphotography #climbinglife #keepitwild

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Alexander Rohr (@alex__rohr) am

Madeleine Cope (GB) klettert 'Mind Control' (8c) in Oliana (ES)

Florian Wientjes (DE) klettert 'The Kingdom' (Fb 8B+) im Tessin (CH)

Samuel Ometz (CH) klettert 'Non à la Bombe' & 'Chromosome Y' (beide 8C+)

Erstbegehung: Jonas Winter (DE) klettert 'The Hitchhiker' (Fb 8A+) im Tessin (CH)

... und 'Off the Wagon' (Fb 8B+) im Tessin (CH)

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Off the wagon 8b+ I lost count how many times i tried the first move of this unique problem in ticino that got famous because of the dosage movies. The clip of chris sharma trying this thing was mindblowing to me when i watched it a lot of years ago. The campus move is not so hard in isolation but a lot of people fall on it because getting the crimp perfect from the ground is the real crux. I told myself to never fall on the campus when i would finaly stuck the first move. On the very last tries of a long session i somehow held the crimp and with loud screams of @giuliano_cameroni and @_keenan_t i could not let go on the campus move. #liveclimbrepeat #chalkmatters #scarpa #climbing_pictures_of_instagramm #climbing_is_my_passion #climbing

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Jonas Winter (@climb_to_heaven) am

Martin Keller (CH) klettert 'The Story of Two Worlds' (Fb 8C) im Tessin (CH)

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14 years after i first did stand underneath that boulder i finally was able to send @dave_graham_ masterpiece „STORY OF TWO WORLDS, 8C“ in cresciano. . another dream came true - it doesn’t get much more classic!!! . dare to dream big - put in the time and work - focus and enjoy the process - eventually you will send - its all in your mind!!! . after falling in true „martin-style“ at the very last move a week before i finally was able to put the whole line together (i started the line from @dai_koyamada ‚s low-start; adding even more funkiness to the line (and thanks to some new crucial beta not really harder then the original start at all anymore). . it was a great journey; this process again that you can turn the impossible into the possible - if you dare to dream big, take your time and keep going no matter what, but still try to act smart - and most of all: it was simply damn fun to climb on this iconic line!!! . . . so its about time to switch again - onto the next journey - cause its all about the process, the experiences you make; the people you meet; after so much time you start to understand that the final destination doesn’t really matter that much anymore . . —> more details (pics/vids) on the whole process on my blog —> link in profile! . . . - pic1; holding the swing on the last crux on the sendburn; pic by @cat__ballou . . -pic2; getting inspired; WHAT A LINE. pic by @hanneskutza . . -pic3; getting inspired and dream big; @dave_graham_ showing how its done back in 2005 @laylazz_ and myself with the ”spot” . -pic4: 2009; climbing the standstart „the dagger, 8B+“ . -vid5; putting in the time and work . -pic6; be smart!!! analyze failure; learn; send!! . -vid7; SEND!!! . —>full vid from the ascent soon @mellowclimbing . . .

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Martin Keller (@swizzybouldering) am

Sean Bailey (US) klettert 'Joe Mama' (9a+) in Oliana (ES)

... und 'Seleccio Natural' (9b) in Santa Linya (ES)

Seb Bouin (FR) klettert 'Pachamama' (9a+) in Oliana (ES)

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Yesterday everything went well, and I had the chance to send the king line Pachamama in Oliana ! This line is for me one of the best in Oliana (or the best ). Thank's @chris_sharma for bolting this one. Luckily I didn't fall in the last slab . I am happy to add my name to this short list : @chris_sharma @sachiamma @jonathansiegrist @jakob.schubert @adam.ondra @patxiusobiaga_pucseries About the grade, it could be a hard 9a+ - 5.15a (some climbers proposed 9a+/b - 5.15a/b). I have to take a day to think about it . Anyway, this line is beautiful and need more repetitions. Venga @jon_cardwell ! Special thank's to the joker belayer @jorgverhoeven and @lei2434 for the patience ! Now direction France to do some coaching. • Hier tout s'est bien déroulé, et j'ai eu la chance d'enchaîner la king line Pachamama à Oliana ! Cette ligne est pour moi l'une des plus belle à Oliana (voir la plus belle). Merci @chris_sharma d'avoir équipé celle ci. Heureusement je ne suis pas tombé dans la dalle finale . Je suis content d'ajouter mon nom à cette short liste : @chris_sharma @sachiamma @jonathansiegrist @jakob.schubert @adam.ondra @patxiusobiaga_pucseries A propos de la cotation, cela pourrait être un 9a+ dur, certains grimpeurs proposaient 9a+/b. Je vais prendre un jour pour réfléchir à cela . Mais de toute façon cette ligne est somptueuse et demande plus de répétitions. Venga @jon_cardwell ! Mention spéciale à l'assureur joker @jorgverhoeven et @lei2434 pour la patience ! Maintenant direction la France pour les coachings. Pic by @jon_cardwell Thank's to support me in these projects @blackdiamond @eb_climbing @amazonas_ultralight @kayland_official @climbskin @natureclimbing

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Seb Bouin (@sebbouin) am

Erstbegehung: Giuliano Cameroni (CH) klettert 'Poison the Well' (Fb 8C+) in Brione (CH)

Michiel Nieuwenhuijsen (NL) klettert 'Mécanique Elémentaire' (Fb 8B+) und 'Jour de Chasse' (Fb 8B) in Bleau (FR)

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What a day Mécanique Élémentaire (8B+) and Jour de Chasse (8B) It took me multiple sessions but I finally understood the first moves (which the two problems share). Both problems were opened as 8C and everything between 8A+ and 8C has been mentioned due to new beta. For me Mécanique feels a bit harder than Chasse. There are no new tricks for Mécanique, but the foot jam makes Jour de Chasse way more controlled than the original Narcotic finish. Finishing of the roof in Recloses was my main goal of this short solo mission to Font. Happy to put it to rest on the first day. Two more perfect days to go ️ J'aime Bleau . . . @moonclimbing @fiveten_official @delftsbleau @climbskinspain #bouldering #climbing #climbmore #recloses #fontainebleau #project #send #boulder #trainhardclimbhard #moonclimbing #fiveten #perfectconditions #sun #grades #roof #bleau #solo

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Michiel Nieuwenhuijsen (@michielnieuw) am

Guillaume Glairon Mondet (FR) klettert 'Ph13' (FB 8B) in Fontainebleau (FR)

Barna Kerenyi (HU) klettert 'Delusion of Grandeur' (Fb 8B) im Tessin (CH)

Stefano Carnati (IT) klettert 'Heritage' (Fb 8B) im Val Bavona (CH)

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Yesterday’s plan was to restart with the daily training routine, but when my friend @marcozanone asked for a belayer in Valle Bavona, I couldn’t not accept... Any excuse to touch some perfect rock. And considering he had been damn close on the famous “Coup de Grace”, I really had to go with him! After warming up on the route, he made a solid effort and climbed it on his first real attempt of the day, reaching the top in the sleet, becoming a 9a climber Later on we moved to “Heritage” boulder, which I failed to find one day some years ago while I was working on the same route. Marco led me to the boulder and after a while I was able to unlock all the sequences except the second move to the gaston, actually the crux. I waited for my skin to cool down and decided to try from the beginning, stuck the move, everything went smooth and I found myself at the top of another swiss ! Maybe I should start using pads more often since it’s my first 8B sent in a day and probably my hardest so far @marcozanone #valbavona #sonlerto #ticino #bouldering #climbing #falling @camp1889 @dfsportspecialist @lasportivagram @ragnidilecco @skill_climbing

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Stefano Carnati (@teto_carnati) am

Marco Zanone (IT) klettert 'Coup de Grace' (9a) im Val Bavona (CH)

Erstbegehung: Hansjörg Auer (AT) eröffnet Route an der Rofele Nordwand (AT)

Jon Cardwell (US) klettert 'Joe Mama' (9a+) in Oliana (ES)

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So good to be back here again with a great group of friends. Arrived a couple weeks ago and decided I would try something different by climbing at many different crags instead of fixating on one zone. So far it has paid off a bit and I was able to finish a route I tried a bit last year a few days ago, ‘Joe Mama’ 5.15a (9a+) in Oliana. A little bit of redemption, as it felt totally desperate last year in the wet spring. Having a great time and super excited to dive into more climbs before heading home soon! Thanks to @williclimb for snapping this photo on the send, and the encouragement from everyone @petzl_official @fiveten_official @frictionlabs @tensionclimbing @adidasterrex

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Jon Cardwell (@jon_cardwell) am

Jim Pope (GB) klettert 'Appointment with Death' (E9/6C) in Wimberry (GB)

Autor: Sarah Burmester
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