Highlights: Chiara Klostermann, Josh Levin, Giuliano Cameroni, Caroline Ciavaldini

Foto: Riky Felderer Caroline Ciavaldini klettert Quarryman (E8 7a) in Wales
Harte Boulder, neue Routen, verrückte Aktionen – hier gibt's die Highlights der letzten Wochen aus der Kletter- und Boulder-Welt.

Hier gibt es den Überblick über die härtesten Züge der letzten Wochen.

Caroline Ciavaldini (FR) klettert 'The Quarryman' (E8 7a) in Wales (GB)


The groove pitch of the Quarryman In a few years, when I think of the day I did the Quarryman with James belaying me, I will remember this crazy moment where, hands pushing both sides of a glass like groove, I was trying to turn my body around. I nearly did it, realised my shoulder was so much behind my back that I wouldn’t be able to rotate any further, and let go of that hand… fell about 30cm, and stopped, my foot on one side, my ass on the other side… In a million tries, I would never be able to reproduce such a movement. It all went wrong, I should have fallen, but somehow, I didn’t. It took me a few seconds to realise where I was, and I heard James yelling “come on Caro, you can do it, keep on going”… and started moving back up. Trust your luck, It’ll happen. @thenorthfaceuk @thenorthface_climb @lasportivagram @wildcountry_official @gloryfy #climbing_pictures_of_instagram # groove #quarrywoman #neverstopexploring #pureclimbing #grimpeuses Thanks @rikyfelderer and La Sportiva dire this great picture!

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Caro Ciavaldini James Pearson (@onceuponaclimb) am



Alex Megos (DE) klettert Era Vella (8c+/9a) in Margalef (ES)




Christof Rauch (AT) knackt harte Linien im Allgäu


Two weeks ago my friend @markuskoecheler showed me some bouldering in the Allgäu. On the first day we checked out Hinterstein, where most of the hard boulders are established by Harald Röker, who also took the I managed to nap the second ascents of "Ragnaröck" (8A+/B) and "Mjolnir" (8A+/B). As well I climbed some classics like "Hinterm Bleaurizont gehts weiter" (7C+), "TNT" (7C+) from the photo and "Orca" (7C) flash. On the second day we had a look at the famous Parkplatzwand and I climbed two classic lines, "Horribus" (8A+) and "Monsterball" (8A+). After that my skin was wrecked and it got too warm to try something else but I will surely come back next season! . . . @scarpaspa @moonclimbing #Germany #Deutschland #Bayern #Austria #Österreich #Tirol #Allgäu #Zillertal #project #rock #boulder #klettern #climbing #mountains #spring #Hinterstein #scarpaspa #scarpaclimb #scarpa #moonclimbing #iloooveit #doyouboulder #climbing_lovers #escalade #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #climbing_worldwide #climbing_is_my_passion #climbinginspiration #climax_magazine

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Christof Rauch (@christof_rauch) am



Pete Whittaker (GB) klettert 'Free Rider' (5.12+, 33SL) rope solo

Zwar hat Pete den Free Rider am El Capitan (Yosemite, Kalifornien, USA) bereits 2016 allein geklettert, hier gibt es nun aber das Video.




Chiara Klostermann (DE) klettert 'Odd Fellows' und...




...'Lost Schnuller' (beide 8c) im Frankenjura (DE)




Erstbegehung von Olivier Lebreton (FR): 'Lazarus' (FB 8B) in Fontainebleau (FR)




Giuliano Cameroni (CH) und Nalle Hukkataival (FI) eröffnen 'Deal with the Devil' (Fb 8B), Gotthard (CH)




...




Romain Desgranges (FR) klettert 'Joyeux Leon' (Fb 8B) in La Balmaz (CH)




Steve McClure (GB) klettert 'Rainman' (9b) in Malham (GB)




Chad Greedy (US) klettert 'Second Life' (FB 8B) in Chironico (CH)




Giuliano Cameroni (CH) klettert 'Bhai Bon' (FB 8B+) in Siurana (ES)




Katrin 'Kaddi' Lehmann klettert 'Todernst' (Fb 8A) im Basler Jura (CH)


Yesterday I climbed one of my bigger boulder goals . It's a link of two existing boulders. The first is called Tod 8a (death), which ends on the starthold of the second boulder called Ernst 7b+ (serious). . 'Todernst' (deathserious) is done. It's been quite a process. . I managed to do 'Tod' last year and was already thinking how it would be to climb further, but couldn't even imagine it. The Tod requires a lot of maximal power, it's quite fingery but also technical and there is no rest. I can't even chalk up my hands before climbing into the second boulder Ernst, where you straight away deal with some big powerful shoulder moves and not many feet. So suddenly you get really pumped... It can get serious, but it was much more fun. Thanks a lot to Mike Tscharner for the vision of those nice basler boulders and the cool unique names of many boulders he opened! #blackdiamond #liveclimbrepeat #todernst #todernstesbouldern #nextprojectiswaiting

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Kaddi Lehmann (@kaddilehmann) am



Eliot Stephens (GB) klettert New Base Line (Fb 8B+) in Magic Wood(CH)




Josh Levin (US) klettert 'Riverbed' (Fb 8B) in Magic Wood (CH)




Jan de Smit (BE) klettert 'Mécanique élémentaire' (Fb 8B) in Fontainebleau (FR)




Carlo Traversi (US) klettert 'L’Insoutenable Légereté d'être' (FB 8B) ...




... und 'Kheops assis' (FB 8B+) in Fontainebleau (FR)




...warum harte Züge manchmal nicht gelingen...




20.04.2018
Autor: Sarah Burmester
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