Harte Züge: Julia Chanourdie, Sachi Amma, Jonas Winter

Foto: Climb to Heaven Jonas Winter klettert Quoi de Neuf (Fb 8C) Fontainebleau
Julia Chanourdie klettert ihre zweite 9a, Jonas Winter bouldert 8C, Keenan Takahashi bouldert V13 im Flash, Sachi Amma durchsteigt sein Projekt... die härtesten Züge der letzten Wochen im Überblick.

Michaela Kiersch (US) klettert 'Necessary Evil' (5.14c), Virgin River Gorge, Arizona (UA)

Julia Chanourdie (FR) klettert 'Molasse'Son' (9a) in Mollans-sur-Ouvèze (FR)

Keenan Takahashi (US) flasht 'The Teacup' (V13) in Leavenworth, Washington (US)

A concerted effort // The Teacup (Flash) // Too psyched!! Being my first trip to Leavenworth, I've been trying to be more focused on flashing climbs. has gotten me stoked for years and seemed just my style, albeit a long shot. The night before, I watched the vid of flash-master @jwebxl on repeat to memorize the beta. The first few moves felt perfect, but as I transitioned to the crux I decided to switch my right foot position on the go; despite all my prior commitment to my sequence, on the wall I was convinced the lower foot would suit me better. I drove hard on the left leg, and stuck the crux. In shock, my feet on the wall, I switched to the other toe. Digging in hard, I caught the lip; after matching and readjusting, I stressfully realized I couldn't see the hold over the lip and would have to swing my feet. "Don't punt, you will never forgive yourself" as I brought my left foot to the lip and reached the edge. As I mantled over, the realization settled in, and I freaked out. Sorry if you were out there and heard my shouting... ‍️ The weather has turned to but this minute has made it all worth it! Extra thanks to my dude @kevintakashismith for the belief and and to @organicclimbing for sending pads when my folks lost my old ones in the move to Seattle @lasportivana @hippytree @frictionlabs

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Keenan Takahashi (@katakaha) am

Erstbegehung: Seb Bouin (FR), 'Les yeux plus gros que l'antre' (9a+/9b) in Russan (FR)

First Ascent of the French Chilam Balam "Les yeux plus gros que l'antre" 9a+/9b - 5.15a/b was intense ! I fell 4 times in this last tuffa dyno before to did it. This move is totaly insane. It's crazy to have this kind of move after 60 metters of climbing. This crux make the route beautiful. About the grade, I porpose carefully 9a+/9b - 5.15a/b. I think it is harder than Chilam Balam (9a+/b) and harder than Pachamama (hard 9a+). I hope some strong climbers will come to try and say if it's more 9b or 9a+ . @charlie_lecocq --------------------------------------------------------------- La première ascension du Chilam Balam français "les yeux plus gros que l'antre" 9a+/9b était intense ! Je suis tombé 4 fois à ce jeté sur colo avant de la faire. Ce move est totalement incroyable. C'est fou d'avoir un move comme ça après 60 mètres d'escalade. Ce crux rend la voie magnifique. À propos de la cotation, je propose doucement 9a+/9b. Je pense que c'est plus dur que Chilam Balam (9a+/b) et plus dur que Pachamama (9a+ dur). J'espère que d'autres grimpeurs viendront essayer et trancher entre le 9a+ ou 9b . @charlie_lecocq @eb_climbing @blackdiamond @mytendon @matahijuice @patxiusobiaga_pucseries

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Seb Bouin (@sebbouin) am

Thomas Lindinger (DE) klettert 'Hips don't lie' (Fb 8B) im Frankenjura (DE)

Stefano Ghisolfi (IT) klettert 'Gancho Perfecto' (9a/+)

Anna Liina Laitinen (FI) klettert 'American Hustle' (8c) in Oliana (ES)

Daniel Woods (US) klettert 'Jungle Speed' (9a) in Siurana (ES)

.... und 'First Ley' (9a+) in Oliana (ES)

Delaney Miller (US) klettert 'Fish Eye' (8c) in Oliana (ES)

Erstbegehung: Sachi Amma (JP), 'Soul Mate' (9b) bei Tokio (JP)

Soul Mate 9b/5.15b ・ I bolted ERProject last December after sending Maturity 9a+ at Gozen Rock in Tokyo. Every week I kept coming at least one day to try. Finally I could send it on March 25th. ・ ERProjectのボルトを打ったのは、Maturity を登ってすぐの昨年の12月。それ以来、毎週最低でも1日は御前岩に通い、トライし続けて来ました。そしてついに3月25日に完登することが出来ました。 ・ About grade. I decided to grade it easy 9b. It was really difficult to grade. Because the crux part is really bouldery and reachy. It is V14/8b+ for me. But it can be V13/8b or V15/8c by physique and ability. ・ グレードについて。 優しめの5.15bにしようと思います。このルートのグレーディングはとても難しかった。核心が非常にボルダリーで、リーチ系だからです。僕の体感だと五段ですが、体格やフィジカルの違いで四段+や五段+に感じる人もいると思います。 ・ I would like to thank the miraculous encounter of this project. I enjoyed so much. I am super energized. I learned always best route is prepared for me now. ・ このルートとの奇跡的な出逢いには本当に感謝したいです。僕は完登までのプロセスを本当に楽しく過ごしました。とても元気をもらった。そしてその時の自分に最適なルートはいつも準備されていることも、リアルな実体験として学びました。 ・ ・ ・ Photo by @maechan82kgclimber ・ @adidasterrex @petzl_official @fiveten_official @rockmasterhq #ERProject #soulmate #9b

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Sachi Amma (@sachiamma) am

Jonas Winter (DE) klettert Quoi de Neuf (Fb 8C), Orsay (FR)

Dave Fitzgerald (IE) klettert 'The Great Shark Hunt' & 'Shadowfax' (beide Fb 8B) in Chironico (CH)

... und 'Big Paw' (Fb 8C), Chironico,...

Last night, I managed to take down Big Paw (8C)!! This is one of the best lines I've ever seen and the hardest I've ever climbed abroad. Using the mini-compression method, I had many doubts whether or not I could piece this one together on this short trip to Ticino, especially given how warm it has become here in Chironico lately. Ya gotta keep trying, though. Under the floodlights, I managed to put all doubt aside and stand on top of one of the best lines in the world! I can't express how happy this makes me feel. Earlier that day, I also climbed a beautiful line called, 'Midnight Lightning of Ticino' (7C+). ️ As always, @puzzleglass were on hand to capture all of the drama, which will be shown in their upcoming film #theblocbusterproject by @jessjames.uk #climbing #bouldering #ticino @moonclimbing @greatoutdoors76 @d_markey @j_p_o_c_ @sam_wlkr

Ein Beitrag geteilt von David Fitzgerald (@dv_fitzgerald) am

...und 'Bügeleisen' (Fb 8B+) im Maltatal (AT),...

Earlier today, I managed to climb Bügeleisen (8B+) in Maltatal, Austria! This line is literally as good as it gets. Didn't think it was going to happen today as my skin was thinning and I'm still trying to shake off a head cold, but I've learned that patience is everything in this game. I took 30 minutes to relax in the sun before my last attempt and once I stood back into the shade, everything just connected perfectly at the right time. I feel privileged to climb such a proud line that has been on my mind for quite some time. Feels good to get the ball rolling again. Tomorrow, we night session the sit... by @puzzleglass/ @sam_wlkr This process was all captured on film by @puzzleglass, who I'll be joining for the next month as we travel through Austria and Switzerland #climbing #bouldering #maltatal #climbingfilm @moonclimbing @greatoutdoors76 @j_p_o_c_ @jessjames.uk @d_markey

Ein Beitrag geteilt von David Fitzgerald (@dv_fitzgerald) am

... und 'Lady in Black' (Fb 8B+) im Maltatal

What a day! Today, I made the 4th ascent of 'Lady in Black' (8B+)! This is hands down the best line I've ever done in this style. For several hours, we battled up the icy roads and trudged through knee-deep snow with many complications, but we got there in the end. Had to dig deep to pull this one together, knowing how difficult it would be to get back there. What an epic! So happy to make an ascent of yet another very special line. Loving it here in Maltatal! Had one really good session on Bügeleisen SS last night, despite some extremely wet holds. We have one more day of dry weather, so I'm gonna give it everything! by @sam_wlkr/ @puzzleglass My ascent of 'Lady in Black' was captured by @puzzleglass for their upcoming film #theblocbusterproject. Be sure to check it out! Peace! #climbing #bouldering #climberscreative @moonclimbing @greatoutdoors76 @d_markey @j_p_o_c_ @jessjames.uk

Ein Beitrag geteilt von David Fitzgerald (@dv_fitzgerald) am

Chad Greedy (US) wiederholt 'From Dirt grows the Flowers' (Fb 8C) in Chironico (CH)

Isabelle Faus klettert 'Delusions of Grandeur' und 'Electric Ant' (beide Fb 8B)

Shawn Raboutou (US) hat 'Beauty vs. Noise' (Fb 8C) in den Rocklands (ZA) geklettert

I guess some people want this.. Noise vs. Beauty probably 8c but.. summer of 2017

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Shawn Raboutou (@shawnraboutou) am

Giuliano Cameroni (CH) klettert 'The Big Island' (Fb 8C) in Fontainebleau (FR)

Anthony Gullsten (FI) klettert 'The Big Island' (Fb 8C) ....

.... und 'The Traphouse' (Fb 8B/+) in Fontainebleau (FR)

Thomas Blaabjerg (DK) klettert Joe Cita (9a) in Oliana (ES)

Joe-Cita(9a). Happy. Proud. Relieved. Psyched. :@torjo

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Thomas Blaabjerg (@thomasblaabjerg) am

Alex Puccio klettert 'Wing Chun' (V12/13) in Ibex, USA

... und 'Penrose Step' (V14)

Erstbegehung: Nathaniel Coleman (US), 'Power of the Psyche' (V14) in Utah (US)

Nemuel Feurle (AT) klettert 'Prinzip Hoffnung' (8b, clean) an der Bürser Platte (AT)

Caroline Sinno (FR) klettert 'Les beaux Quartiers' (Fb 8A) in Fontainebleau (FR)

Patxi Usobiaga (ES) in 'Pachamama' (9a+/b) in Oliana (ES)

Anna Stöhr (AT) klettert 'New Base Line' (Fb 8B+) im Magic Wood (CH)

Autor: Sarah Burmester
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