Highlights: Erstbegehung von Anak Verhoeven & harte Boulder fallen

Foto: Tom Thudium Tom Thudium klettert Gliding through the Waves like Dolphins 8A
Die Rocklands-Saison brachte einige Sends, aber auch andernorts wurden harte Züge gemacht. Anak Verhoevens Erstbegehung ist vermutlich die bislang schwierigste einer Frau.

Erst hatte Anak Verhoeven Sang Neuf (9a) in Pierrot Beach im französischen Vercors klettern können und damit eine Erstbegehung abgeliefert, dann kombinierte sie die Linie noch mit der bereits bestehenden zweiten Seillänge von Home Sweet Home (8c/+). Mit dem Durchstieg war Sweet Neuf entstanden, die Anak Verhoeven mit 9a+ bewertet und damit die bislang schwerste Erstbegehung einer Frau darstellt.

Die Belgierin ist Europameisterin im Lead und mit konstanten Spitzenplätzen im Lead-Weltcup bekannt, treibt sich allerdings gern auch am Fels herum, wie ihre Instagram-Einträge weiter unten zeigen.

Anak Verhoeven gelingt Erstbegehung in Pierrot Beach




Foto: Tom Thudium Tom Thudium klettert Gliding through the Waves like Dolphins 8A

Tom Thudium klettert 'Gliding through the Waves like Dolphins' (8A).

Im Sommer ist in den südafrikanischen Rocklands Hochsaison, so gelang dem derzeitigen Weltreisenden Tom Thudium eine Begehung von Mooiste Meisie (Fb 8B) sowie Witness the Sickness und Gliding through the waves like Dolphins sowie ein Flash von Salam (alle Fb 8A). Letzteres Problem schätzt Tom nun auf 7C... doch ob Tom stark oder der Boulder schwach ist, lässt sich natürlich von Deutschland aus schwer einschätzen. Ein Knie-Problem hat Tom jetzt vorerst ausgebremst, wir wünschen schnelle Genesung und weiterhin viel Freude beim Halbjahres-Klettertrip um die Welt.

Weitere fette Begehungen listen wir unterhalb.

Anak Verhoeven: Sweet neuf (9a+) First ascent – After having climbed Sang neuf, I had 1 climbing day left. Sébastien Richard suggested that I could try to link Sang neuf with the 25 meter second pitch of Home sweet home (8c/+) and I accepted the challenge. After a rest day I climbed Sang neuf again but this time I did not stop at the chain, but climbed on to the chain of Home sweet home. This new route is now called Sweet neuf: Sang neuf & Home sweet home combined.




Anak Verhoeven klettert 'San Ku Kai' (8c+?)

Anak Verhoeven: Right after the world cup in Briançon, I had a little time to enjoy nature and climb on rock for one day. I went to the beautiful crag of Entraygues and chose a route named San Ku Kai as my project. The circumstances that day weren't perfect, but since I had only 1 day at the crag, I wanted to do my very best to top it. And it payed off! I was able to climb the route in my very last attempt of the day! :-)
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I'm not sure about the grade of San Ku Kai. I've been told that it was a 9a before, that it has been downgraded to 8c+/9a and that it might be an 8c+ now, due to a broken hold (which has created a better hold).




Pirmin Bertle eröffnet erste 9a in Bolivien




Paige Claassen klettert 'Eye of Odin' (8c+)

Paige Claassen: Yeaaaaa! A check off the life list. Eye of Odin (5.14c/8c+) was the main reason I wanted to spend September in Flatanger. It felt just as hard as every other burn, but after getting through the wetter than normal traverse section, I tried extra hard through the eye crux and then didn't punt at the top. Amped! Thanks @arjandekock for letting me commandeer all the best conditions of the day; @trainingbeta @seth_lytton @neelyquinn for entertaining my original goal and coming to Norway with me + your support and beta :) ; and @ethan_pringle for FAing such an awesome line! Now I can move on to my secondary project of trash cleanup around the crag - the global climbing community should be embarrassed by all the trash that is tucked beneath that talus field. We're all to blame, as it's easy to accidentally leave things behind, but c'mon folks. We can definitely do a better job to keep our crags trash free!
Photo by @trainingbeta (@neelyquinn)




Chris Sharma eröffnet neue DWS-Linie

Chris Sharma: Yesterday I was able to complete a new #psicobloc line in Soller, Mallorca that I've been eying for many years. It's one of the most aesthetic, biggest and hardest deep water solos I've ever done. So grateful to play and push my limits high above the sea on this perfect stone year after year! Check out the sequence of photos of the crux section at 20+ meters high.
I'm calling this one Big Fish and its somewhere around 8c+/ 9a.




Said Belhaj klettert 'Cobra Crack' (8b+) in Squamish

Said Belhaj : I dont like giving anyone, or anything, the Finger. Neither do I like taming animals. But sometimes exceptions have to be made. Back in 2005 @sonnietrotter and I hiked up to check Didier work a futuristic, perfect crack in Squamish. It was a "restday" so I did a few easy routes and went up to touch the perfect granite splitter on a top rope. Several years and ascents later I was finally back to try to tame the Cobra myself. Thanks to all the preparations, beta and help I managed to do it. I felt lucky and luck is what happens when preparation meets opportunity (Seneca). Now in LA trying to buy a car and fish tacos -should be a bit easier?! Foto Nathaniel Vigeant




Moritz Perschwitzky bouldert 'El Corazon' (Fb 8B) und mehr

Moritz Perschwitzky: El Corazon (8B) went down in style 2 days ago first go of the session after falling 15 times on the last move in the 4 sessions before. It became a mental battle because you always need a lot of pads for trying it and a lot of guys supporting you. Thanks for that and the nice picture Tom Thudium!

Moritz gelangen außerdem noch: Madiba, Moiste Meisie, Ubuntu und The Vice (alle Fb 8B) sowie Industry of cool, Armed response, A tea with elmarie und Brain rapist (alle Fb 8A+).




Michiel Nieuwenhuijsen in der Silvretta

Michiel Nieuwenhuijsen: Two splits, but I was stubborn. Had to dig deep and in the end I won the battle. Happy to have send Golden gate (Fb 8B) in Silvretta. Now my skin needs to heal quick!

Außerdem gelang ihm noch Harakiri (8a+).




Josh Levin klettert 'The Vice' (Fb 8B)

Josh Levin: Super stoked to take down my first V13/8B, The Vice in Rocklands! The boulder took multiple days of effort to figure out just the right sequence, and still took everything I had on the send go. Very excited to finish out this long-term goal of mine in climbing.




Markus Jung klettert 'Mooiste meisie' (Fb 8B)

Markus Jung: We had a really good time here in Rocklands. We came here with high expectations and didn't get disappointed. It was even better than we had imagined.
Sadly today is our last day here and we have to pack our bags. Goodbye lovely sandstone and hopefully see you again soon Foto: mooiste meisie which I sent twice that day because I dabbed the tree first time :-)

Markus konnte auch noch Tea for Elmarie (8a+) und L'Arche (8a+/8B) klettern, sowie The Vice, Vice President und El Corazon (alle Fb 8B). Er flashte The Hatchling (Fb 8A).




Paul Houghoughi - Erstbegehung in Portland, England

Der aus Wales stammende Paul "Huffy" Houghoughi und seine letzte Erstbegehung im Portland werden im Video portraitiert. Außerdem darin: Warum alle Kletterer auch Nahkämpfer sein könnten.




Giuliano Cameroni gelingt Erstbegehung Hazel Grace Fb 8C

Giuliano Cameroni: First ascent of Hazel grace (Fb 8C) up in the Swiss alps. Video coming soon.




Toru Nakajima klettert 'Lucid Dreaming' (V15)




Niky Ceria bouldert 'The Globalist' (Fb 8B+)

Niky Ceria: Finally I made it to Sipoo! Nice first day around Helsinki, climbing the outstanding Globalist! Such a stunner!
Simply another world class problem by Nalle Hukkataival - Looking forward to check more rock in this place!




Max Räuber klettert 'Madiba' (Fb 8B)

Max Räuber: Another day another boulder. This one was a recommendation from a friend (thanks @bradsaunders87) and a good one, I really like the moves and the history behind the name (Madiba).




Daisuke Ichimiya klettert V16 (oder Fb 8C+)

Daisuke Ichimiya: Creature from the black lagoon (V16) in Colorado.

Außerdem gelang ihm eine Wiederholung von Jade (Fb 8B+) und Don't get too greedy (V13).




Alex Khazanov klettert 'Practice of the Wild' (Fb 8B+/C)




Jakob Schubert in Rocklands

Jakob Schubert: Time flies here in Rocklands, this amazing trip is coming to an end. The last few days have been great again and I managed to send some more 5-Star boulders: on Sunday I flashed Mooiste Meisie (8B) and Black Shadow (8A+), on Monday I was able to send Trust Issues (8B+), on Wednesday I sent Amandala (8B+), Vice President (8B+) and Gogoan (8B/+) and yesterday I flashed The devil wears Prana (8A+) and sent Shaky Warrior (8B/+). Excited to spend the last day sightseeing in Capetown before returning back home to Austria!
Thanks for the cool Photo @climbingandphotography




Das Schlusswort: Hazel Findlay

Hazel Findlay: The mystique of rock climbing is climbing; you get to the top of a rock glad it’s over but really wish it would go on forever. The justification of climbing is climbing, like the justification of poetry is writing; you don’t conquer anything except things in yourself…. There is no possible reason for climbing except the climbing itself; it is a self-communication.” - Mihaly Csikszentmihalyi What do you reckon? Is he right? Foto jongriffithphotography